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Michael Franz
Aug 31, 2010
WRO reader Kent Benson writes, "It seems to me, if you are going to assign a score and claim a great degree of precision, you should provide a detailed description of how such precision is achieved. Without such an explanation, how is the reader to know if a reviewer is emulating Parker's system, has created a different system, or has no system at all, other than assigning a number based upon overall admiration?"
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Michael Franz
Aug 3, 2010
Exactly five years have passed since we launched Wine Review Online, making this seem like a good time for a bit of stock-taking. Of the various things we've done while developing the site, the one that has drawn the most flak has been the adoption of the 100-point scale for evaluating wines. Scoring wines on this scale was new to me five years ago, and it was new to almost all of us who write for WRO. I took this step with some apprehension and found the transition quite uncomfortable, but after employing the 100-point scale continuously for years, I've concluded that most objections to it are rooted in prejudice, misconception or flawed reasoning.
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Michael Franz
Jul 6, 2010
The 2006 bottlings of Barolo--as well as Riservas from 2004--are now arriving on our shores, and they are terrific. The 2006 Barolo wines clearly continue a historically unprecedented streak of strong vintages running all the way back to 1996, with the single exception of 2002. The top wines from 2006 will rival their counterparts from the very best recent years--1996, 1999 and 2004--and since many of the top wines are produced in relatively small quantities, savvy Barolo lovers should pay sharp attention. Right now.
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Michael Franz
Jun 8, 2010
In a time when the news is pretty grim on many fronts, it is especially pleasant to point to something wonderful that is suddenly the best it has ever been: Nebbiolo from Piedmont. The great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco have recently enjoyed an extended streak of excellent vintages that is simply unprecedented. For long-time lovers of Barolo and Barbaresco--or for those newly curious about Italy's most fascinating reds--the upshot is clear: If you have a piggy bank, grab a hammer.
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Michael Franz
May 11, 2010
A key aspect of the amazing renaissance in Spanish wine during the past 15 years has been the emergence of world-class white table wines made from indigenous grapes. Not long ago, white Spanish table wines were quite rare in export markets. This situation has changed dramatically during the past decade, and today Spain exports hundreds of thousands of cases of white table wine to a single country like the United States. Particular regions exporting whites from Spain have turned from selling themselves as curiosities and started seeking stature by claiming to be the best that the country can offer.
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Michael Franz
Apr 13, 2010
With tax returns due this week, every wine lover in the USA is either confronting a hit to the ol' wine budget or getting a refund that might permit a little splurge. In either case, I've got some advice for you. Those of you who will be shelling out to the IRS get priority. Everybody knows that times are already tough enough without Uncle Sam digging into your pocket, so as a counterweight to this double-whammy, let me offer the good news that affordable wines have never been as good as they are right now.
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Michael Franz
Mar 16, 2010
The deadline for filing income tax returns is looming over us once again, so your financial forecast will soon be coming clear: Either you're about to send a check to Uncle Sam or he's about to send one to you. This will also clarify your vinous forecast: Either you'll be sticking to bargain wines for a while, or you should be considering a celebratory splurge.
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Michael Franz
Feb 16, 2010
I had lots of hair--before people started asking me this question. For years while I was writing about wine for The Washington Post, I used to do a live, interactive show on washingtonpost.com during which readers would hit me with questions for an hour. I would get juked up on strong coffee and type like a fiend, trying my best to answer questions concisely to engage as many readers as possible. I got fairly good at answering most queries in three or four sentences and ending with a quick rule of thumb. But then this question would hit--like a crowbar rammed into the gearing--and the show would grind to a virtual halt.
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Michael Franz
Jan 19, 2010
The Loire Valley is one of the world's greatest--but most under-appreciated--sources for fresh, versatile, unfussy wines. There's actually good news in this, since the gap between the renown of Loire wines and their true quality allows savvy wine lovers to snap up excellent wines that are priced well below their actual value. This is true for Loire whites and sparklers, but the discrepancy between performance and price is probably widest for the region's delicious reds, which feature a light, soft profile that makes them perfect for many foods that would be overwhelmed by the big, brawny reds that are so popular these days.
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Michael Franz
Dec 22, 2009
Wine writers have wallpapered the world with recommendations for Thanksgiving turkey, but comparatively few suggestions have been offered for year-end feasts such as Christmas dinner. Since I live to eat and love to drink, I figure I'm the man for the job, so here we go with six wine ideas for a half dozen dinners: Standing Rib Roast, Roasted Lamb, Goose, Pork Roast, Baked Ham and Roasted Turkey.
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Michael Franz
Nov 24, 2009
Even if it were not Thanksgiving week, nobody would be surprised by the suggestion that a wine writer should be thankful for his job. However, you may be a bit surprised to learn exactly why I am most thankful for my opportunity to write about wine, and maybe you'll find in this a new way to think about your own relation to this most amazing beverage--one that is perhaps appropriate for our troubled economic times.
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Michael Franz
Oct 27, 2009
In my view, glassware sanity is a moderate stance somewhere between a scoffing minimalism and an obsessive maximalism. Scoffers dismiss the importance of fine glassware and the proliferation of specialized glasses that purportedly enhance the experience of particular wine types. At the other extreme, obsessives would have you believe that you are committing a sacrilege if you try to drink your Brunello di Montalcino out of anything but a purpose-built Brunello glass. However, both of these positions end up looking silly in the light of repeated testing.
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Michael Franz
Sep 29, 2009
If you have never had an opportunity to go winery touring in Rioja, but have an interest in what the experience might be like, then read on. I hit 18 bodegas in an ultra-intense four-day stretch recently, and, having now largely recovered, I can report that Rioja is one of the world's most interesting and pleasurable destinations for wine lovers and trade members.
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Michael Franz
Sep 1, 2009
When people regard something that lies outside the cultural mainstream as peerlessly beautiful, it often bothers them that others don't appreciate it more fully.
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Michael Franz
Aug 4, 2009
August is the year's leading month for vacations and travel, and the economy is beginning to show signs of recovery, so the question arises: Where should you go (next August if not this) for a world-class, on-site wine experience?
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Michael Franz
Jul 7, 2009
Temperature is a crucial factor in wine appreciation, yet it is a factor that is insufficiently appreciated by many consumers. Wine critics and competition judges know that any wine will taste dramatically different when tasted at different temperatures. Similarly, sommeliers and connoisseurs know that the season or even the ambient temperature in a room will affect the appeal of almost any wine--whether advantageously or adversely. Being thoroughly informed about the importance of temperature is one of the most helpful ways to pick better wines and get the most out of them, usually without spending a dime.
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Michael Franz
Jun 9, 2009
I can still remember how strikingly delicious my first taste of Albariño was, and how embarrassed I was in the wake of the experience. It happened on the last night of my first trip to Spain, in December of 1997, in a restaurant in Madrid. My friends and I were waiting for a companion who was late in showing up, and as time dragged on, an impatient member of our party suggested that we order a bottle of wine. The issue of what to order was dispatched immediately when two people at the table called--simultaneously--for an Albariño. Not knowing what that was, and not wanting to expose myself as a doofus, I just sat there silently as a bottle of 1996 Morgadio from Rias Baixas was presented and then poured.
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Michael Franz
May 12, 2009
Although my background as a life-long Sherry lover should have prepared me for an adulthood of comprehensive Sherry appreciation, I confess that I needed a recent Conversion Experience to jolt me into awareness of what a terrific partner Sherry can be for foods--and an impressively wide range of foods at that.
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Michael Franz
Apr 14, 2009
As though things were not rough enough already on the economic front, Uncle Sam is about to stick his hand in the pocket of many millions of Americans tomorrow for 2008 income taxes. So why, you ask, am I belaboring this painfully obvious point in a column that is supposed to be devoted to wine? The answer is that Tax Day is the one time each year when all wine lovers are focused simultaneously on a development affecting their wine budget.
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Michael Franz
Mar 17, 2009
What we need to weave wine more deeply into the fabric of American culture is a true diffusion of winegrowing that spreads it not only among but also within the 50 states. Second, such a 'micro-diffusion,' which is actually underway at the moment, will reap important benefits not only for the cultural acceptance of wine in the USA, but also for the quality of American wines.
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Michael Franz
Feb 17, 2009
This past August, when the economy started nose-diving in earnest, I published a column on WRO entitled, "Loving Wine on the Cheap." Since the economy has dramatically worsened since August, and since there's no way in hell that we're going to stop enjoying our favorite drink, I've been at it again, thinking harder about how to continue enjoying wine while spending less money.
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Michael Franz
Jan 20, 2009
The remarkable recent renaissance of Spanish wine has intensified worldwide interest in Spain's most famous red grape: Tempranillo. With Tempranillo-based reds from regions like Rioja and Ribera del Duero rising to challenge the best bottlings from Bordeaux and beyond, the grape is destined for comparisons with the world's top red varieties.
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Michael Franz
Dec 23, 2008
There are very good reasons to believe that Champagne is the world's greatest wine. Excellent Champagne can provide innumerable aromatic nuances. It can deliver remarkable depth and persistence of flavor while remaining restrained in intensity and delicate in body. Its subtle power is demonstrated by its (underappreciated) ability to stand up to many foods, and to develop positively over many years of ageing. No other wine is as invigorating, and no wine can match it for textural complexity. Period.
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Michael Franz
Nov 25, 2008
Turkey is pretty far down my list of favorite foods, and Thanksgiving is not a culinary highlight of my year so much an opportunity to fulfill its basic purpose: Reflect on things for which I should be thankful. The close of this year marks my 15th as a wine writer, and since this is clearly the World's Best Job, it would be very bad karma not to wax grateful on any anniversary ending with a five or a zero.
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Michael Franz
Oct 28, 2008
This column follows on the heels of one that I published here on WRO a month ago with a title that referred to South Africa as the "Fragile Flower of the Wine World." Both are based upon a week of intensive tastings and interviews conducted in the Cape region in September, and whereas the initial article focused on the general fragility of the country, this one assesses South African wines on their current merits. After relaying a lot of rather distressing information on the first round, I'm pleased to be able to report that the current merits of South African wine are pretty damned impressive.
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Michael Franz
Sep 30, 2008
I'm writing this column on the heels of a trip to South Africa, reflecting on a week of observation that leaves me doubting that any wine producing country in the world can match South Africa for fascination--or fragility. I've followed developments in South Africa as closely as I could since first visiting nearly a decade ago, and during that time have seen the country's wine industry knocking on the door of vinous excellence while also glancing furtively over its figurative shoulder at the possibility of social and political disaster.
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Michael Franz
Sep 2, 2008
There's a good chance that a very promising development on the American wine scene has been sneaking up on you unnoticed: Fine wine is being made in your neck of the woods--almost regardless of where you live in the woods. And as a result, wine is reaping great benefits in terms of acceptance and appreciation within American culture.
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Michael Franz
Aug 5, 2008
Okay, so let's not mince words here: The economy is totally screwed. As a result, wine lovers feeling the pinch will surely be tempted to pinch wine out of their discretionary spending, just as many interested but cash-strapped novices will be dissuaded from taking the plunge. Unless, that is, we can show that there are ways to enjoy wine while economizing.
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Michael Franz
Jul 8, 2008
It is July, and I'm inside the notorious Washington, D.C. Beltway, which means that at least two things are happening: Lots of wine is being consumed, and lots of wine is being mishandled and consumed in error, on account of the torrid, steamy heat.
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Michael Franz
Jun 10, 2008
I have a lot to say in praise of Rioja in this column, but for the sake of credibility, want to note as my point of departure that almost everything I have published about the region during the past 15 years has been critical. In my view, Rioja has let other Spanish regions steal its thunder due to a complacent sense of entitlement. However, Rioja has recently set a lot of things right, and is coming back--big time.
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Michael Franz
May 13, 2008
There is a scandal in the American wine industry, and it isn't what you might guess. It has nothing to do with the use of chemicals or scary additives. Nor is it about strange manipulative processes like 'reverse osmosis' or 'spinning cones.' The scandal in American wine is that the United States produces remarkably few excellent wines costing twelve bucks or less.
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Michael Franz
Apr 15, 2008
I love Oregon's beautiful wine country, and I love the wonderful culture that has sprung up there among producers, which is very innovative and ambitious in terms of quality, but refreshingly unpretentious in its bearing. And I have been madly in love with Riesling for two decades. So when I learned last year that my favorite white grape is enjoying a renaissance in what may be my favorite American region, it was like hearing that a romance had bloomed between a couple of dear friends.
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Michael Franz
Mar 18, 2008
WRO readers who have seen Michael Apstein's column from last week on wine pricing will have noticed that he deliberately yanked on my chain in an attempt to provoke a response. Well, it worked. I had promised that this month's column would be a profile of Rieslings now coming out of Oregon, but I'll need to put that off for a month, since I can't resist the pleasure of a genuine dispute with an intelligent friend.
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Michael Franz
Feb 19, 2008
Like many wine writers but unlike most American consumers, I regard Riesling as the world's greatest white wine grape. Perhaps because Riesling has been badly undervalued among mainstream consumers in the United States, it has also been under-produced by American vintners. Riesling has its devotees in the United States, but they are still greatly outnumbered by doubters, and thus I feel compelled to address the skeptics among you with my argument for Riesling's supremacy among white grape varieties.
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Michael Franz
Jan 22, 2008
As the very happy occupant of The World's Best Job, I am exceedingly fortunate to be able to taste thousands of wonderful wines each year. I've been at it for 15 years now, and I feel as lucky today as I did when I was first able to weasel my way into wine writing. I'm sure that it would be no surprise to anyone that I love the job. However, you might be a bit surprised to learn that my greatest pleasure in the job is an intellectual one rather than a gustatory one, namely, discovering wine producing regions that are on the rise or making a new leap in quality.
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Michael Franz
Dec 25, 2007
I tasted about 9,000 wines in 2007, and when you check out that many bottles, you get a pretty good idea of which way the wind is blowing in the world of wine. There's now some pretty compelling evidence indicating that lighter wines featuring greater purity of fruit are gaining rapidly in popularity, and that consumers are showing increasing antipathy to wines with conspicuous levels of wood and alcohol.
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Michael Franz
Nov 27, 2007
The Australian wine industry is in trouble. Pretty serious trouble too, and from more than one source. Five years ago, Australia looked like a juggernaut in the wine world, with production and exports growing by leaps and bounds and a very strong competitive profile. But things have started to turn sour in the past couple of years.
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Michael Franz
Oct 30, 2007
There's no "party line" or "house style" here at Wine Review Online, where our contributors are quite free to take issue with one another. Against this backdrop, you may perhaps attribute more significance to a strong convergence of opinion when we arrive at one. Which we have: I wholeheartedly endorse Michael Apstein's views on the remarkable Spanish wines of Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas in his column, 'The Mystery and Magic of Murcia' from last week's issue of WRO.
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Michael Franz
Oct 2, 2007
I have tasted some very interesting and distinctive wines from New York over the years, and have always wanted to get a much more comprehensive sense of what winemakers across that state are achieving. But I knew of no easy way to do this. Until now.
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Michael Franz
Sep 4, 2007
The average quality of the top 100 restaurants in most major American cities is far higher than it was a decade ago, and the bottom 50 of those is really dramatically improved. It is quite uncommon for me these days to run into a menu that is fundamentally imbalanced or ill conceived. But the good news ends there. Wine lists are an entirely different story. Even at top restaurants, I see lists all the time that are appallingly overpriced, shockingly thin, preposterously large, difficult to use, filled with sloppy typos, or fundamentally imbalanced toward certain grapes or regions.
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Michael Franz
Aug 7, 2007
It seems to me that the smart way for the average consumer to buy great Burgundy from small estates is to focus on the wines of exemplary importers or exporters. The very best US importers (or exporters working from France) serve an important gate-keeping function as they select the best producers for their portfolios. I hope to profile the Burgundies of several of these top importers and exporters in coming months, but wish to start with an overview of the terrific wines of Jeanne-Marie de Champs.
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Michael Franz
Jul 10, 2007
If you are new to Prosecco, I'd reiterate my advice from last month's column and suggest that you just experiment in a relaxed way with a bunch of different bottlings. If you've got some experience with Prosecco, you are perhaps starting to notice that these wines differ quite interestingly from one another, and I'd recommend that you gear up your thinking as well as your drinking.
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Michael Franz
Jun 12, 2007
Prosecco is among the world's easiest wines to enjoy. Yet, despite that fact (and partly because of it), Prosecco is not the world's easiest wine to understand or regard properly. I confess that I have misunderstood it, and not just once, but twice. I want to help you avoid my mistakes, so bear with me and read on.
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Michael Franz
May 15, 2007
I recently found myself driving behind a guy with one of those license plate holders reading, "I'd Rather be Sailing." I thought, me too, but since we're just fantasizing here, can't we do better than that? Much better would be: "I'd rather be sailing on the French Riviera with one hand on the tiller and the other holding a cold glass of Provençal rosé."
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Michael Franz
Apr 17, 2007
APRIL 17, 2007: The deadline for filing income tax returns is upon us today, so your financial forecast should be clear: Either you're about to send a check to Uncle Sam or he's about to send one to you. This will also clarify your vinous forecast: Either you'll be shopping for bargain wines for a while, or you should be ready for a celebratory splurge.
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Michael Franz
Mar 20, 2007
If you travel internationally, many of the world's most storied vineyards are only a few minutes away. For example, if your travels include a stop at the aviation hub in Frankfurt, a rented car and 45 minutes of bat-out-of-hell fun on the autobahn will deliver you to one of the greatest wine estates in Germany. Or, if you can feign illness and bug out of your boring business meeting in Adelaide, you can be sipping Shiraz in McLaren Vale within the hour.
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Michael Franz
Feb 20, 2007
It seems pretty clear to me that the most important person involved in getting you a great glass of something distinctive and compelling is the importer of artisan wines. Based on this conviction, I devote a couple of columns each year to importers doing exemplary work by connecting us to terrific wines from some corner of the world. In that vein, I'm pleased to introduce you to Roy Cloud of Vintage '59 Imports.
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Michael Franz
Jan 23, 2007
On December 27, 2006, a new appellation (or AVA, American Viticultural Area) was granted for the Chehalem Mountains by the U.S. Department of the Treasury's Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. Who cares? Anybody who wants to be part of the ongoing process of understanding the varied expressions of Pinot Noir arising from the distinctly different growing conditions in the northern Willamette Valley, which is indisputably one of the world's great Pinot terroirs.
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Michael Franz
Dec 26, 2006
Pinot Noir is the world's greatest grape of place, and the spot in the world where the most interesting work is currently being done on the relation of Pinot and place is in Oregon. During the past few years, Oregon's vintners have pressed beyond emphasizing their state's general strength with Pinot Noir to distinguish and legalize more particular growing regions.
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Michael Franz
Nov 28, 2006
As 2006 draws to a close, I'm thinking back to the vinous highlights of the year. Although I was very fortunate to taste all sorts of fancy wines from around the world, few offered as much pure pleasure as a couple dozen delicious surprises that I tasted in South Africa in April. What was surprising about these wines was that they were made from a grape that rarely gets much respect: Chenin Blanc
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Michael Franz
Oct 31, 2006
Vines have been cultivated for winemaking for thousands of years, so we've already identified all of the world's potentially great grape varieties, right? Wrong. Way wrong, and I'll bet that there are at least a dozen grapes that will be regarded as top-tier cultivars a century from now that are, today, virtually unknown. If this sounds implausible to you, I've got a fascinating case in point: Carmenère from Chile.
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Michael Franz
Oct 3, 2006
How could Priorat have risen from virtual dormancy thirty years ago to produce wines selling today at prices comparable to First Growth Bordeaux? More puzzling still: how could a region capable of producing wines in that league have slipped into dormancy so recently, given that its great vinous potential has been known at least since the Middle Ages?
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Michael Franz
Sep 5, 2006
For better or worse, only union organizers spend Labor Day reflecting on the historic contributions of Labor. The rest of us spend it lamenting the end of summer, and my lamentations on this score are as intense as anyone's, including garment rendering and teeth gnashing--the whole nine yards. Nevertheless, the one compensation that I find in this time of year is that once the heat of summer subsides, cooking and eating start to reclaim their proper place at the center of life.
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Michael Franz
Aug 8, 2006
Last month, when seeing the gorgeous vineyards of Alsace for the first time in six years, my first thought was, "Why the hell haven't I been here for six years?" Although I managed to travel to Alsace four times between 1992 and 2000, tasting explorations in other locales have kept me away more recently, resulting in several sorts of deprivation.
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Michael Franz
Jul 11, 2006
Abruzzo (also called Abruzzi) is a mountainous region on the central section of Italy's Adriatic coast. Like Sicily and Puglia, it produces a lot of ordinary wines but also a really few excellent ones. The best are whites made from Trebbiano d'Abruzzo and reds from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and the reds from the Colline Teramane are clearly the best of the best.
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Michael Franz
Jun 13, 2006
When considering whom we should thank for the recent arrival of great Greek wines in the USA, we should not forget the crucial role of the importer. And to my knowledge no importer has has done more to bring excellent Greek wines into America and out of the Greek restaurant subculture than Sotiris Bafitis.
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Michael Franz
May 16, 2006
We're now on the brink of summer, and during summertime living is supposed to be--according to a famous song--easy. Wine should be a part of that. It should be relaxing. It should be a pleasant, welcoming beverage that offers evening respite from the problems of the day. It should not, itself, pose additional problems. But for a great many people it does exactly that.
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Michael Franz
Apr 18, 2006
After eight days of tasting, touring and talking with winemakers in South Africa earlier this month, I'd no longer introduce a novice to South African wine by highlighting the country's 350 years of winemaking experience. On the contrary: I'd note that this country's wine industry is essentially a new one, and is just now getting poised to show how good it can be.
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Michael Franz
Mar 21, 2006
The release of Chateau Montelena's 2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is noteworthy for several reasons: the wine is terrific, and its release marks the 25th vintage to be released in the winery's "modern" era. I've been fortunate to taste many of those exemplary Cabernets over the years, and I always come away from the experience impressed by what the wines are--and what they are not. What they are not: over-ripe, over-oaked or over-hyped. What they are: complex but focused, powerful but balanced and refined but ageworthy.
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Michael Franz
Feb 21, 2006
Very few consumers pay any attention to the small print on the back of a wine bottle. In most cases, they aren't missing much. In some instances, however, they're missing something very important when they don't notice a name associated with the line reading, "Imported by...." I'd like to propose another name for consideration in the ranks of America's most significant importers: Aurelio Cabestrero, president and owner of Grapes of Spain, Inc.
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Michael Franz
Jan 24, 2006
Enjoying wine is a simple matter for anyone who can work a corkscrew, but becoming truly knowledgeable about the subject requires many years of tasting and study. Roughly 55,000 different bottlings are available in the United States alone, and if you wish to understand the many factors that account for variations in character and quality, you'll need to keep your nose in a book as well as in a glass.
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Michael Franz
Dec 20, 2005
If you are not totally revolted by commercialism in this holiday season, you will be soon.
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Michael Franz
Nov 20, 2005
Thanksgiving dinner involves lots of twists, ironies and challenges for lovers of food and wine. We could all use a few new ideas for responding to these challenges, and this column will give you a sense of how each of us at Wine Review Online deals with the day.
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Michael Franz
Oct 25, 2005
The state of Washington is poised to become America's premier source for Syrah. If you doubt the truth of that statement, I've got some wines that will likely turn you into a believer. And if you question the significance of the statement, you should consider how rare it is for any state to surpass California in vinous achievement with a major grape variety.
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Michael Franz
Sep 27, 2005
Some wines are more illuminating than others, but rarely do we encounter ones that can strike down two misconceptions with a single sip. However, if you assume that Barbera is a pinched, acidic little drink, or that the famously hot European summer of 2003 produced nothing but flabby, graceless wines, prepare to be set straight. But don't worry-this is one form of remedial education that you are going to love.
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Michael Franz
Aug 30, 2005
I like big, lush, California Chardonnay as much as the next guy, but there's a limit to how much lobster and swordfish anyone can eat. When I've got a taste for more moderate food, I want a leaner, more versatile wine that won't overwhelm it, and lately I like what I see when looking up from California toward Oregon.
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Michael Franz
Aug 1, 2005
They say that confession is good for the soul, so here goes: when I began writing about rosé wines, I did so without having the slightest interest in the stuff. Although I was well aware that dry rosé is a very different animal than sweet "white Zinfandel," I just didn't think of rosé as worthy of my attention.
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