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Michael Apstein
Aug 24, 2010
Despite the tsunami of enthusiasm that appears every summer, I've never been a fan of rosés, except, of course, for rosé Champagne. The argument for rosé is that they are perfect for summertime because they are not too serious, they stand up to and go with hearty cold salads or grilled fish, and they cut through summer's heat and humidity. I don't dispute that some rosés have those attributes. Far more are limp and innocuous, lacking energy. More often I have found a chilled light, low-tannin red wine, such as Beaujolais or an aromatic vibrant white wine, has far more character and fills the bill better than rosé-until now. A rosé included in the first tasting during a week-long visit to Navarra, a region in northern Spain nestled between the French border and Rioja, made me rethink my previous opinion.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 27, 2010
It's not of course. Chardonnay still holds that position. But to listen to wine professionals, it should be. Belinda Chang, the talented and charmingly enthusiastic sommelier at the Modern in New York effuses, 'I've yet to find a food that doesn't go well with Riesling.' (Alsace Wines has adopted the clever--and appropriate--promotional phrase, 'Just Add Food,' to reemphasize Chang's statement.)
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Michael Apstein
Jun 29, 2010
As Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, pointed out, luck played a role in Ornellaia's success. It was lucky that Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia's founder, went to California in search of vineyards because it was there that he met André Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards' legendary winemaker. Without Tchelistcheff's urging, he may not have looked to Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast, for his project. Nor after starting the project would he have focused on Merlot and planted it in the Masseto vineyard. After all, Lodovico had already made a mistake--bad luck--by planting Sauvignon Blanc, for which he had a passion, in what was later determined to be a prime area for red grapes. But it's not luck that Ornellaia makes consistently exceptional wines. It's their attention to details.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 1, 2010
'It was luck,' according to Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, that accounted for the extraordinarily rapid ascent of Ornellaia in the eyes of the world. 'It was lucky that Mario Incisa della Rocchetta [owner of Sassicaia] planted Bordeaux varieties when [in the 1940s] and where he did [Bolgheri]. Remember, there were no consultants or elaborate soil testing back then to help determine what to plant and where to plant it.' But the story of Ornellaia's success is far more than luck. There's good ol' fashioned sibling rivalry, a clear vision and extraordinary attention to detail.
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Michael Apstein
May 4, 2010
Few regions deliver the extraordinary diversity of wines, especially whites, like the Loire Valley. From the flinty Muscadet in the west to the herbal Sancerre in the east and the lush sweet wines from Coteaux du Layon, consumers can find every style of white wine perfect for summertime fare. The Loire producers with whom I spoke recently are very enthusiastic about the quality of the 2009 vintage there. The 2009 Muscadets I have sampled confirm that assessment.
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Michael Apstein
Apr 6, 2010
These tastings reinforced my image of Brunello as a powerful, yet classy, wine. It should deliver a distinctive core of bitter cherry, dark chocolate, and/or an earthy minerality. The black cherry fruitiness of Sangiovese is apparent, but Brunello should convey what I call a "not just fruit" element-an alluring, dark, pleasing almost bitter aspect. Around the core are firm but polished tannins and the bright acidity characteristic of Tuscan wines in general.
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Michael Apstein
Mar 9, 2010
One of the great things about wine is how new areas appear or spring up seemingly overnight--almost like mushrooms after a rain--and wind up producing world class wines. It happens all over the world. The Marlborough region in New Zealand was a cow pasture, but now is producing great Sauvignon Blanc and showing strong potential for Pinot Noir as well. In the United States, it was brave pioneers like David Lett who showed that Oregon's Willamette Valley was well suited to making high quality Pinot Noir. All of which brings me to Manchuela, which, in 2000, became Spain's latest Denominación de Origen or DO.
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Michael Apstein
Feb 9, 2010
It may be odd that I, a confirmed Francophile with a special affection for Burgundy, should be extolling the virtues of California Chardonnay.
But it's true. Don't think I'm comparing California--or any New World Chardonnay--with Burgundy. I'm not. Burgundians insist their wines are vehicles for transmitting the flavor of the vineyard--a.k.a. terroir--not the flavors of the variety. Jacques Lardière, the masterful winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, has said more than once, 'If you taste Chardonnay in my wines, I've made a mistake.' He means of course that you should taste the minerality of Puligny-Montrachet or the earthiness of Chassagne-Montrachet.
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Michael Apstein
Jan 12, 2010
My hope for the New Year is that winemakers turn down the "volume" so we wine drinkers can savor the music. It is clear that current popular taste embraces the ultra-intense style of wine--both white and red. Alcohol levels in these wines often soar to 15+ percent--and acid levels drop--as winemakers leave grapes on the vine to achieve ever more ripeness. What is less clear to many consumers is that there is a downside to making wines is this massive-but-soft style--regardless of its present popularity.
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Michael Apstein
Dec 15, 2009
Burgundians were heralding the quality of the 2009 vintage--perhaps another 'vintage of the century'--even before the grapes were harvested, let alone transformed into wine. That's because the weather during the growing season predicted an extremely successful vintage. Prices at the just concluded 2009 Hospices de Beaune auction confirm the locals' enthusiasm for the vintage. The average price of the red Burgundies was up by 31 percent compared to last year, while prices for the whites overall fell by about 3 percent. And that's in euros. Consider the weakness of the dollar over the past year and we Americans can expect an even greater increase in price.
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Michael Apstein
Nov 17, 2009
When you think of Madrid, what pops into your mind? Vino or Prado? Prado, of course, one of the world's most magnificent museums. But Madrid, not the city proper, but the autonomous region of Madrid--the roughly 3,000 square miles around the city--is home to about 50 wineries who produce a wide range of wines from indigenous as well as international grapes. They range in price from $10 to over a $100 a bottle.
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Michael Apstein
Oct 20, 2009
'All Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc tastes the same,' is the major misconception that the industry must combat, according to Darryl Woolley, Chief Winemaker for the Constellation Group, which controls about ten percent of Marlborough's production through their labels. Certainly the hallmark of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is the zesty, pleasantly pungent, grapefruit-like zing that makes these wines extraordinarily versatile--and popular--with a wide variety of foods, from simply grilled fish to Asian-influenced cuisine. It is equally certain, however, that they don't all taste the same, as demonstrated by a tasting organized recently by Woolley in New York.
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Michael Apstein
Sep 22, 2009
The Niagara Peninsula is as unlikely a place as you can imagine for producing fine wines. Let's start with the obvious. It's in Canada--and not Western Canada where more temperate climate prevails. The Niagara Peninsula is a strip of land in Eastern Canada separating Lake Ontario from Lake Erie. And in case you've forgotten, Buffalo, with its hundreds of inches of snow each winter is on Lake Erie, the only one of the Great Lakes that actually freezes in the winter.
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Michael Apstein
Aug 25, 2009
Many wine regulations make no sense. But to me, the worst is the one that allows a portion, usually 15%, of grapes from outside of an appellation to be included in a wine and yet keep the appellation's name of the label.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 28, 2009
White Burgundy fans should be very happy. The 2007 vintage produced a wide array--from Chablis to Mâcon--of excellent white wines. And the world-wide economic crisis means that prices are lower. That combination is a 'perfect tranquility' for Burgundy lovers.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 30, 2009
Everyone seems to agree that the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley is unique because of its topography, climate and soil. The question remains whether that uniqueness translates into distinctive wines that reflect the site. To test the theory, I spent two days in the Stags Leap District comparing the same vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes grown in the Stags Leap District to those made from grapes grown in other California locales.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 2, 2009
Americans have never been particularly adept at geography. Since most would fail to locate Kansas on an unlabeled map of the United States, how would they fare with finding Chambolle-Musigny? This is why the American practice of naming wines by grape name is so successful for marketing. However, winemakers everywhere--from California to France--insist that wine is 'made in the vineyard,' and that location matters. Europeans have long had a rigidly codified appellation system that controls, among other things, the origin of grapes for wine. In a half-hearted way the American wine industry has adopted a superficially similar system--establishing American Viticultural Areas or AVAs. The half-hearted aspect is shown by the fact that regulations only require that 85% of the grapes come from the specific AVA. By contrast, in all European appellation systems, all the grapes must come from the designated geographic area indicated on the label.
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Michael Apstein
May 5, 2009
Most everyone agrees that old vines produce better wines. But why? Why do old vines produce better fruit and hence, more complex wines? Explanations abound. But in medicine, when there are competing explanations or treatments, the reality is that no one really knows. I suspect the same is true with this topic.
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Michael Apstein
Apr 7, 2009
Sherry is confusing and misunderstood. Most Americans think Sherry is sweet because of the predominance of Cream Sherries--which are sweet--on the market. In the United States, 60% of the Sherry consumed is sweet. In Britain, two-thirds is sweet. In truth, the best Sherry is dry, which probably explains why the vast majority (80%) of the Sherry consumed in Spain is dry.
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Michael Apstein
Mar 10, 2009
Although I've said it before, it's worth repeating: wines from Abruzzo deliver more bang for the buck than you'd expect. The region is starting to realize its enormous potential for making high-quality, well-priced wines.
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Michael Apstein
Feb 10, 2009
If you are looking for wines that deliver more than their price suggests (and who isn't during these economic times?), it pays to learn about Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, an intense red wine that stands up to the flavorful, chili-laden Abruzzi cuisine.
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Michael Apstein
Jan 13, 2009
Stephen Adams is a low profile but very wealthy American businessman who was bitten by the wine bug relatively late in life on a honeymoon trip to Bordeaux in 1999. Unlike most wealthy Americans who opt for Napa or Sonoma when they want to 'get into wine,' Adams chose Bordeaux and started collecting properties there. As with many 'collectors,' Adams started low, with Château Lagarosse, a property in the down-market appellation of premier Côtes de Bordeaux, but rapidly starting buying in the more upscale St. Emilion and Pomerol appellations.
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Michael Apstein
Dec 16, 2008
Dom Perignon, step aside. Although the famous monk is often credited with 'inventing' Champagne, in reality, the women of the region made it what it is today.
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Michael Apstein
Nov 18, 2008
"When we can't explain something, we call it terroir." That was Jean-Philippe Delmas' answer to the question of why such notable differences mark the wines from Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. At some points, these two stellar properties literally across the road from each other in the Bordeaux sub region of Pessac Léognan actually dovetail with one another. Although Delmas' comment was met with laughter from the guests at a wine dinner at Blantyre (an upscale Relais & Chateaux property in Western Massachusetts that is rapidly becoming known for their sensational wine dinners), the truth is that--at least in this case--terroir does indeed explain the difference between these two legendary properties.
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Michael Apstein
Oct 21, 2008
Even though it's hard to recommend specific wines from the 2007 vintage at this stage because most are unfinished and still developing in barrel, an early assessment of the 2007 vintage in Burgundy is important because it helps determine a buying strategy now. The size and quality of the 2007s will affect prices of both existing stocks and the new vintage. So, even an early look at the new vintage as a whole will help you to determine whether you want to save your money and buy the '07s when they are offered for sale or scour the market now for the remaining wines from prior vintages.
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Michael Apstein
Sep 23, 2008
With the recent completion of the Olympics, we are reminded of the incredible skill, precision and commitment it takes to win a medal, competing against the best in the world. An Olympic bronze medal--recognizing one the third best in the world at one's sport--is high praise indeed. Why, then, are bronze medals from wine competitions shunned by some as though they'd been damned with faint praise?
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Michael Apstein
Aug 26, 2008
With the current economic downturn forcing people to cut back at all levels, perhaps it's foolhardy to suggest that now is the time to start a wine cellar. But paradoxically, now is a perfect time.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 29, 2008
"You have a finite number of meals in your life, so don't waste one." This is a guiding principle for me, as I take food very seriously. However, finding satisfying restaurants when traveling to unfamiliar cities can be a challenge, especially if the wine list plays an important role in your choice.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 1, 2008
We've all heard -- and probably muttered -- aphorisms to explain the disappointment after opening and tasting what was supposed to be a "great wine." The most common explanation is "bottle variation," as in, "I had a great bottle of that wine only last week," or 'the last bottle of that wine showed much better than this one." Someone invokes the cliché, "It just goes to show you there are no great wines, only great bottles of wine." I maintain that the explanation for bottle variation -- a very real phenomenon -- is the inherent inconsistency of using corks as closure for wine.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 3, 2008
No person has had as great an influence on California wine--and how the world viewed it--as Robert Mondavi. Andre Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards' legendary winemaker from 1938 to 1968, made great Cabernet Sauvignon--and less well realized, but no less great--Pinot Noir. Ernest and Julio Gallo sold more California wine (and their company still does) than anyone else. But it was Robert Mondavi who put California wine on the world's wine stage.
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Michael Apstein
May 6, 2008
With his closely cropped beard and an almost flattop-like haircut, Kaj Ahlmann (pronounced Kye) could double as a slide-rule toting engineer from the 1950s. His winemaking philosophy confirms your first impression when he emphasizes, 'we collect data all the way through' and the name of the winery, Six Sigma, accurately reflects his mantra.
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Michael Apstein
Apr 8, 2008
If imitation is the greatest form of flattery, then we should flatter the French. Not by copying their wines, but by copying how to show them to the public. Something the California wine industry--as well as Oregon or New York for that matter--would be wise to copy from the Burgundiansis Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, a week-long series of intensive tastings.
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Michael Apstein
Mar 11, 2008
I have ongoing discussions regarding wine pricing with Michael Franz, my friend and colleague here at WRO. He believes that part of his responsibility as a critic is to consider whether the price of a bottle of wine bears a reasonable relation to its cost of production. I, on the other hand, ascribing to the free market philosophy, believe that the market should be the sole determinant of price.
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Michael Apstein
Feb 12, 2008
It is often difficult for American consumers, who are accustomed to varietal labeling, to understand and the see the virtue in the European tradition of naming wines by reference to place of origin rather than the name of the grape--a system that highlights the importance of terroir or place. Part of the difficulty stems from determining whether the character of the wine is due to the producer's style or whether it is truly due to the origin of the grapes.
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Michael Apstein
Jan 15, 2008
Wine service in restaurants, even many that carry one of the Wine Spectator's awards for superior wine lists, seems to be an afterthought. Although the Spectator's awards are solely for wine lists, you'd hope that those restaurants with stellar lists would also have stellar service--or service that is at least reasonable. But that's rarely the case.
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Michael Apstein
Dec 18, 2007
Tasting and talking with Janet Trefethen, who along with her husband, John, and their family, owns Trefethen Vineyards, illustrates how California wine can still wow you with subtlety. Despite the current vogue for overdone powerhouse wines, Trefethen continues to produce Cabernet Sauvignon that, while intense, is most notable for its finesse, complexity and ability to develop. Similar to a great sauce, Trefethen Cabernets have a glossy texture and a plethora of flavors, none of which dominate. Trefethen's white wines are stylish and precise. Their wines make you smile from first taste to last drop.
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Michael Apstein
Nov 20, 2007
Great vintages, such as 2005, produce wonderful wines at all levels, from the simplest Bourgogne Rouge and lesser-known village wines, such as Marsannay or Santenay, to the grand cru. And with the rising prices of the 2005s coupled with the plummeting value of the dollar, it's time to look at village wines in general. Village wines, those that are usually a blend of wine from various non-premier or grand cru vineyards within a single village, such as Meursault, may lack cachet, but can offer great value when made by talented producers, such as Jadot or Latour, especially in 2005.
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Michael Apstein
Oct 23, 2007
One of the mysteries of Murcia, a province in southeastern Spain that is unknown to most North American wine lovers, is how such a hot climate can produce powerful wines with elegance and freshness. And why are they such good values?
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Michael Apstein
Sep 25, 2007
Pouilly-Fuissé is poised to become the next 'hot' area for white Burgundy. It's quite a step up for this area, the most important appellation within the Côte Mâconnais, because, up until now, it has been widely considered little more than a solid, safe choice in Chardonnay-based white wine.
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Michael Apstein
Aug 28, 2007
Dismissed by many in Spain as a region suited only to producing bulk wine, Bierzo is poised to become one of Spain's leading wine regions. The landscape, the focus on indigenous grapes, and the personalities involved convince me that still-obscure Bierzo is destined for the big time.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 31, 2007
There is no better overall producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape than Château La Nerthe. They may not make the 'best' wine from the region every year, but they produce incredibly consistent wines year in and year out, as do the handful of other top producers such as Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraphe.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 3, 2007
One of the paradoxes of the wine world is the discrepancy between wine writers' and consumers' love for Riesling. Wine writers love it. So why then isn't the public listening to what we wine writers say on this subject? I think the problem lies with Riesling's spectrum of style, from cuttingly dry to almost syrupy sweet.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 5, 2007
John Larchet, an importer of Australian wines, and Bob Harkey, a wine retailer, both expressed the same troubling idea about Australian wines--albeit in very different ways.
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Michael Apstein
May 8, 2007
Every wine producer I met on my recent trip to Australia wanted to discuss regional diversity of Australian wines. They know that in order to grow, they need to expand beyond what they have already mastered: delivering wines that are simple, fruity, inexpensive, and easy-to-drink, with a cute critter on the label.
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Michael Apstein
Apr 10, 2007
Are the 2005 Burgundies as extraordinary as first reports indicate? The Burgundians themselves are heralding the 2005 vintage--but that's not news in and of itself, since wine producers always rave about the vintage they have to sell. However, I believe this is an extraordinary vintage for the reds and excellent one for the whites.
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Michael Apstein
Mar 13, 2007
What do Robert Parker and global warming have in common? They are the two major forces in Bordeaux over the last two decades, according to Marcel Ducasse, who has a unique perspective on the changes in Bordeaux during that time. Ducasse will be retiring next month after 23 years as the managing director of the now resurrected cru classé property, Chateau Lagrange in St. Julien.
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Michael Apstein
Feb 13, 2007
Although I'm lucky to be able to interview individual winemakers or managers of wine estates, it's unusual to sit around a table with a group of them to discuss their individual winemaking philosophies and techniques. You learn very quickly that, just as there are multiple ways to cook a chicken, there's more than one way to make great wine.
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Michael Apstein
Jan 16, 2007
After helping Cloudy Bay bring New Zealand wines to the world's attention with its racy Sauvignon Blanc -- Cloudy Bay's 1985 Sauvignon Blanc awakened Americans to New Zealand's potential for making unique wine -- Ivan Sutherland and James Healy are changing the New Zealand wine industry again.
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Michael Apstein
Dec 12, 2006
It's dinnertime in Beaune, the capital of the Burgundy wine trade, and Ma Cuisine, an unpretentious bistro, is packed and bustling as usual. When the door opens and an American with a charming boyish grin enters, the locals greet him with enthusiasm. Alex Gambal works the room like a politician works a crowd.
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Michael Apstein
Nov 28, 2006
Here on the Eurocentric East Coast -- remember we're nearly as close to France as to California -- I still am asked, albeit less frequently than two decades ago, whether America produces wines comparable to France. As my daughters would say, 'Duh.'
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Michael Apstein
Oct 24, 2006
There is a good reason why fans of white Burgundy are smiling. Wines from the underrated 2004 vintage are now on retailers' shelves, thankfully replacing the 2003 vintage.
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Michael Apstein
Sep 26, 2006
Maison Louis Latour's Corton-Charlemagne is the benchmark wine for that grand cru vineyard. Always tightly wound when young, its remarkable character opens and expands with years-even decades-of age.
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Michael Apstein
Aug 29, 2006
Everyone is familiar with the French Paradox: the French eat a diet rich in fat, but have a low rate of heart disease. Another French paradox is why Alsace Riesling is not more popular in the United States. By all rights, it should fly off the shelves.
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Michael Apstein
Jul 25, 2006
Unlike France with its grand white Burgundies, a bevy of whites from the Loire Valley, and alluring Alsatian wine, Spain's white table wines don't command worldwide attention. (Cava, Spain's unique and refreshing bubbly, and Sherry are another story). But thrilling Spanish white wines are just around the corner as a new generation of winemakers challenge the accepted dogma and explore new frontiers
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Michael Apstein
Jul 4, 2006
Prosecco, Italy's unique and stellar contribution to the world of sparkling wine, must have been invented for summertime. Although the Italians drink it year round as an aperitif, summer is the perfect discovery time for those unfamiliar with the joys of this light and "friendly" wine.
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Michael Apstein
Jun 6, 2006
The Italians name their wines by place name, such as Chianti, or grape name -- think Pinot Grigio -- or both, Dolcetto d'Alba. When the name of a town, Montepulciano, is the same as the name of a grape, Montepulciano, the potential for confusion is understandable.
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Michael Apstein
May 9, 2006
Everybody loves a deal, and some of the best deals in Bordeaux these days are the "second" wines of the top-rated Bordeaux properties. While they never will develop the complexity and class of the property's grand vin (first wine), they are ready to drink far sooner, and typically sell for a fraction of the price.
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Michael Apstein
Apr 11, 2006
Shiraz from Western Australia is stylish, refined, and seriously under appreciated. Thanks to the cooling influences of the Indian and Southern Oceans, these wines typically have a wonderful complexity based on peppery or spicy notes that balance their plumy, ripe flavors.
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Michael Apstein
Mar 14, 2006
The labels say "product of Australia," but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major--and pleasant--surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.
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Michael Apstein
Feb 14, 2006
The current fashion in wine, certainly in New World wines, is for ripe, fruity flavors and the massive alcohol that invariably accompanies them. Consumers looking for alternatives need to look outside the mainstream. Wines from New York State, which certainly qualify as "outside the mainstream," offer an extra touch of ripeness that is the New World's signature, while retaining vibrancy that a cool climate imparts.
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Michael Apstein
Jan 17, 2006
It is the part of restaurant dining that most people dread. You are with a group of colleagues or friends, or perhaps on a special date. The conversation is flowing, everyone is relaxed and having a good time. Then, the waiter gives you the wine list.
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Michael Apstein
Dec 20, 2005
Bait and switch, an unsavory tactic in the used-car business, is finding its way into the wine industry. Think of the bait as a New World reserve wine that is produced simply to generate a 90-point-plus score from a top wine critic. Think of the switch as the regular bottling of the same wine, which is more likely to be what's available to the average consumer.
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Michael Apstein
Nov 22, 2005
The major criticisms of wines from the New World are that they have too much fruit and alcohol and too little subtlety and elegance. Critics go on to say that these wines are unbalanced and fail to develop complexity and layers of non-fruit flavors as they age.
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Michael Apstein
Oct 25, 2005
The French speak passionately about terroir, a concept maintaining that the character of a wine comes from the unique climate and soil where the grapes are grown. But the French do not have a monopoly on terroir. Sauvignon Blanc grown in the Marlborough region of New Zealand imparts a "sense of place" as stongly as any wine in the world.
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Michael Apstein
Sep 27, 2005
Christian Moueix, perhaps the most influential wine figure in Pomerol and St. Émilion where he oversees his family's ten properties, also owns Dominus Estate in the Napa Valley. During a recent trip to California to supervise activities at Dominus, he stopped in Boston and we met and tasted for three illuminating hours in my kitchen.
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Michael Apstein
Aug 30, 2005
Perhaps people who spend their entire life with Merlot become like the wine: easy-going and charming, without hard edges. That describes Christian Moueix, a man who is remarkably straightforward, especially for someone so important and influential in the world of wine. His intelligence and insight were immediately apparent during a wide-ranging, three-hour meeting and tasting in my kitchen last month.
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Michael Apstein
Aug 1, 2005
Although they may lack the cachet of wines from small growers, such as Lafarge or Mongeard-Mugneret, the Burgundies made by négociants, especially in 2002, are not to be missed.
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Rose Love In Bloom
