One of the advantages of connoisseurship is spotting wines (or music or art) that mainstream consumers might pass up.  Whenever I see this Italian Gewürztraminer on a restaurant wine list, for example, I am likely to order it. Gewürztraminer is an unlikely grape variety for an Italian wine, but this particular Gewürztraminer happens to be one of the finest in the world.

The part of Italy that this wine hails from -- the Alto Adige area in Italy's north, bordering Switzerland and Austria -- actually has a Germanic heritage, and was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919.  The Traminer grape, of which Gewürztraminer is a dark-skinned mutation, is believed to have originated here and is named for the village of Termeno.  J. Hofstätter is one of Alto Adige's most prestigious producers.  The Hofstätter operation encompasses seven estates; the Kolbenhof vineyard gives its name to the estate where the Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer grows and is vinified.

Martin Foradori, the proprietor and winemaker of J. Hofstätter, believes that Alto Adige offers the market a unique style of Gewurztraminer.  To me, the wines can be as robust as Alsace Gewurzes and their aromas and flavors are archly typical of this variety, but the wines have somewhat higher acidity, a touch more refinement and somewhat more focused aromatics.

Kolbenhof Gewürztraminer is currently in transition on the market from the 2004 vintage to the 2005. Both are outstanding wines. Perhaps because of its extra year of age, the 2004 is the softer and richer of the two, an exotically flavorful white with an amazing unctuousness of texture, and it is irresistibly drinkable now. The 2005 seems to have a slight edge in quality, however, as well as being lower down on its aging curve. 

The 2005 has a perfumed aroma of roses along with a penetrating, unusual orange zest note; a bit of minerality emerges in the flavor, along with a grounded, earthy near-bitterness that's typical for this grape and serves to balance the wine's expansive character.  The wine is full-bodied but lively, with a creamy texture and yet good depth from its acidity, which is fairly high for Gewurz.  It is a flavorful, exotic wine but under control.  In a year or two, it could become as explosive in flavor as the 2004 is now, but will retain a tighter, more focused core.  A common chord for both vintages is the wines' opulence combined with length across the palate; they are rich upfront, but are not short. as so many big,  flavorful whites are.

You might think that wines as flavorful as these would be difficult to pair with food.  But these are Italian wines.  They love food.  The rich, rich 2004 is heavenly with bitter escarole on salty olive ciabatta bread.  The leaner 2005 is a better match for broccoli rabe, which is less bitter than escarole.  The 2005 is also great with the likes of a Tabasco-spicy chicken quesadilla, coming across lively and smooth as silk with food like this.

Hofstatter Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer is a treasure. Whenever you find it, whichever the vintage, whatever the food, try it. 

91 Points