The hunt for America's most intriguing Pinot Noir continues. This time 'round, Mendocino County is the search area, because the Northern California wine region is only now beginning to attract Pinotphiles who have long been showering their praise on their righteous red from such vaunted areas as Carneros, Russian River Valley, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Barbara County and most recently, Monterey County.
In the modern age of Northern California red wine, when Cabernet was king, Napa Valley stepped forward first, followed by Sonoma County, while Mendocino County lingered in the background. Only a few notable Mendocino Cabernets were available then, made by pioneers like Barney Fetzer and John Parducci, both of whom were sourcing fruit from the warmer highway 101 corridor that runs between Hopland and Ukiah. It wasn't until the early 1980s that cool climate reds like Pinot Noir began to hit the market from Mendocino's near-coastal region, Anderson Valley.
It makes sense that winemakers looking for the right terroir for Pinot Noir would turn to the cool climate conditions of Anderson Valley. With the deep pockets it takes to buy into any wine region, Champagne Louis Roederer decided on Anderson Valley in 1981, joining John Scharffenberger in triggering a mini-boom of Anderson Valley sparkling wine made from cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Scharffenberger eventually became Pacific Echo, a name only a land developer could love, while Roederer Estate evolved arguably into California's best sparkling wine, fueled of course by Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.
Today, while Pinots from relative newcomer Sonoma Coast are garnering much attention, Mendocino Pinot producers such as Navarro, Goldeneye, Husch, Greenwood Ridge, Claudia Springs, Handley, Lazy Creek, Harmonique and the revitalized Parducci are gradually showing the wine world that Pinot is not only possible from Anderson Valley, but it has what it takes to stand with its peers at the top echelon. As further proof that Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is the real deal, Napa's Cakebread Cellars and Sonoma's La Crema and Williams Selyem have added Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs to their lines.
The history of Pinot Noir in Mendocino County can be traced back to 1960, when John Parducci, a man who believed strongly in the purity of Mendocino grapes, brought some Pinot Noir cuttings to Mendocino from the Christian Brothers in Napa. Parducci's experiment in the warm alluvial soils of Ukiah Valley was reasonably successful and it paved the way for Mendocino varietal wines. By the mid 1960s, Mendocino had a modest 52 acres of Pinot Noir planted, but the number was growing. In 1971, Tony Husch planted Anderson Valley's first Pinot Noir alongside the Navarro River. Other Pinot plantings soon followed, but the Pinot juggernaut slowed in 1970s, then gaining momentum again in 1981 with the arrival of Roederer. By 1990, Pinot plantings had grown to 700 acres, sprouted to a healthy 1,940 acres in 2005, placing Mendocino fifth in the top five California Pinot Noir growing regions.
So, what is it about Mendocino and, in particular, Anderson Valley, that makes Pinot Noir a just-right variety? Glenn McGourty, University of California viticulture and plant science advisor for Mendocino and Lake Counties, says it's a combination of factors. Foremost in Anderson Valley is the cool climate, fueled by ample sunlight energy to produce grape crops in the four to six tons per acre range, tempered by fog. He also mentions alluvial soils, with normal to high soil moisture, fortified by marine sandstones and Franciscan structured rock, all working together to form a specialized terroir.
Considering all the science in this equation, you're still left with the realization that few red wines encourage more emotion in wine circles than Pinot Noir. While not exactly a "love it or hate it" proposition, tasting Pinot is a highly personal experience. Put a group of tasters around a table with a flight of Pinots and you get a wide range of opinions and scores for the same wines.
My personal take on Mendocino Pinots appears below, but before we proceed, please permit a brief digression. I was recently shuffling through some old files and came across a small humor-laced piece (Heaven knows there is so little humor in wine writing) written by Pat Howe, titled "How to Competitively Judge Wines." With tongue planted firmly in cheek, Howe was reflecting on a previous tasting when he wrote that judging Pinot Noir is not like judging other reds and you can't use "the usual methods." So, he suggests, "pick three wines you absolutely hate. These are your winners. Pick the wine you like the most and make it honorable mention. This system guarantees to keep them guessing."
The Howe Method sounds like a little outrageous fun, but for the group of select Mendocino Pinot Noirs that follow, I took a more systematic personal approach. All of the Pinots are from Anderson Valley, except one Potter Valley and one with a Mendocino County appellation. Potter Valley is an inland sub-appellation that's northeast of Ukiah, close to Lake County. All prices are winery suggested retails.
Claudia Springs Winery, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Klindt Vineyard Pinot Noir 2003 ($24.): The color of this Pinot is a bright medium ruby and the aromatics are dark fruits like ripe black cherry. The vanilla-laced flavors are somewhat simple, but the wine finishes with moderate levels of juicy fruit and refined tannins. 86
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2003 ($52): This tasty Pinot has a brilliant medium-deep ruby color. The initial scents are subtle notes of cherry-berry, earthy-smoky components and a touch of spice, while the flavors are big and chewy, supported by fine tannins and good fruit. This is a supple Goldeneye with lots of potential. 92
Harmonique, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir "The Noble One" 2003 ($52): The color is a medium ruby with pale edges, followed by shy aromatics of vanilla and ripe black cherry, with cedar and black tea accents. The medium flavors are dry with restrained fruit, followed by a quick finish. 85
Husch, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2003 ($21): This lovely Pinot shows a brilliant medium deep ruby color and aromas of smoked meat, dark fruits and spice. The subtle smoky flavors are mingled with bright raspberry and smoked bacon, all supported by firm but not intrusive tannins and a full concentrated finish. This stylish Pinot is a clear sign that you don't have to break the bank to get complexity and depth in a Pinot Noir. 90
La Crema, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2004 ($29): This shows bright medium ruby color clear to the edges, with a nose of medium black cherry, low intensity oak and a hint of spice. The concentrated, chewy flavors are dense with dark fruits, firm tannins and good balancing acidity. This Pinot has finesse and length. 90
Naughty Boy Vineyards, Potter Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2003 ($24): The color of this bad boy is light to medium ruby, while the nose is a blend of ripe fruit, boiled tea and leather. It has dry, medium flavors, and is a bit light on the lush supple fruit you want from Pinot Noir. There is some heat in the finish. It is hard to tell if this wine, made from organically grown grapes, is serious or not, but for the price, it should be. 84
Navarro Vineyards, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir "Deep End" 2003 ($44): The color of this lovely Pinot sparkles like a brilliant ruby. The aromatics are full and forward with deep black cherry, leather and the subtle scent of boiled beets. It feels good in the mouth, with supple fruit flavors, good acidity and refined tannins. This is an inviting Pinot with depth, complexity and potential. 94
Parducci Wine Cellars, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir 2004 ($11): This is a just-barely Pinot, bringing together 76% Pinot Noir, with Syrah, Carignane, Souzao and "Other Red." The color is light-medium ruby, while the aromas and flavors are lightly fruity with subtle herbaceous notes. Despite the promise of at least a modest level of rustic intensity from the multi-varietal blend, the finish is a bit simple and short. 84
