Making sense of the mountain maze that holds the Napa Valley together can be a bit of a puzzle. The eastern ridges are actually the western edge of the Vaca Range, with high-altitude vineyards clinging to the lofty heights of Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak. Along the western edge of the valley run the southern end of the Mayacamas Mountains. Over the top and down the western slopes of the Mayacamas is Sonoma County, but that's another story.
By nature, mountain-grown wines are more intense and stronger in structure than their valley counterparts, but show different aspects of fruit and finesse. Traversing the west mountain spine are noted viticultural areas such as Diamond Mountain, Mount Veeder and Spring Mountain; the first two producing firmer, more muscular red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, while Spring Mountain Cabernets are generally softer and more accessible at an earlier age.
In 1993, the Spring Mountain District, or SMD as it is locally known, was granted AVA status, although the region has a viticultural history dating back to the 19th century. A short distance outside St. Helena, just as Spring Mountain Road begins its steep climb, is Spring Mountain Vineyards, perhaps the best known winery on the mountain. In 1981, the stately stone mansion, formerly known as Miravalle, for its commanding view of the valley, became famous to millions of television viewers as the image of Falcon Crest. Today, after an extensive restoration, the vast 845-acre property is back on the wine scene as one of Spring Mountain's noted wineries.
That slice of television fame never had much impact on the independent mountain people. Spring Mountain has always been home to strong personalities and independent thinkers, from the likes of Fred Aves, the founder of Yverdon Winery (now Terra Valentine) who reputedly posted a no trespassing sign at the end of his lane claiming trespassers would be shot, to present-day mavericks such as Stu Smith (Smith-Madrone) and Philip Togni (Philip Togni Vineyard). These folks and a few others deal differently--or not at all--with organizational politics and appellation affairs, which they believe have too firm a grip on the business of grape growing and winemaking.
Valli Ferrell of Spring Mountain Vineyard says that although the Spring Mountain District AVA was approved in 1993, it took a full decade to really get it going. In all, the Spring Mountain District membership totals 25 wineries and growers, though not all members use the SMD appellation, as some prefer the Napa Valley AVA. Such noted wine names as Smith-Madrone, Stony Hill, York Creek and Philip Togni do not belong to the SMD, for one reason or another.
Beyond Spring Mountain Vineyard, the wineries and vineyards further up the mountain are scattered, sometimes hidden from the leafy road, and include Peacock Family Vineyard, Terra Valentine, Scully Family Vineyards, Robert Keenan Winery, Pride Mountain Vineyards, Stony Hill Vineyard, Barnett Vineyards, Smith-Madrone Vineyard and a host of others. Cain Vineyard & Winery and Marston Family Vineyard are accessible off Langtry Road.
Spring Mountain District encompasses nearly 9,000 acres, but only about 1,000 acres are under vines, with red grapes accounting for approximately 90% of the total. Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 56% of the plantings with Merlot a distant second at 18%. Small plots of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot make up the remainder of the red plantings. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and bits of Riesling and Viognier account for the white grape plantings in SMD.
The conditions on Spring Mountain are ideal for varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of the vineyards are above the fog level, and the mountain vineyards enjoy cooler days and warmer nights than the valley floor vineyards. Another factor that sets SMD red wines apart are the moderating afternoon breezes that flow up and over the Mayacamas Mountains. In all, SMD has a longer, more even growing season than its neighbors on Diamond Mountain and Mount Veeder.
The following notes are for wines tasted at an SMD Premiere Open House, held last February at Spring Mountain Winery. Of the 25 SMD member wineries, 12 members poured selected wines, alongside one non-member, Stony Hill Vineyard.
Barnett Vineyards, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($65): Very deep, inky, black-ruby color. Ripe blackberry and spice aromas follow through to the taste and are supported by ample fine tannins and good acidity. A little gritty now in the finish, this wine needs additional bottle aging. 90
Cain Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) "Concept" 2002 ($50): This nicely constructed blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Merlot is deep with richly textured flavors, firm tannins and good length. It hasn't yet lost its bright, fresh berry character, and the wine's good structure will carry it well into the future. 89
Frias Family Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($65): This 100% Cabernet is packed with bright, black fruit aromas and flavors. It has good texture, firm tannins and a medium refined finish. 88
Lynch Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Syrah 2002 ($65): The color of this mountain Syrah is deep and inky. Fresh berry aromas are combined with a delicate smoky accent that carries over to the flavors. This gutsy wine has depth and good body. 90
Robert Keenan, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Reserve 2004 ($56): Deep ruby color and plumy scents distinguish this tasty Merlot. The bright black fruit flavors are amply supported by firm but supple tannins and the wine finishes with loads of fruit and a subtle mineral note. This is a big and brawny Merlot worth cellaring. 92
Pride Mountain Vineyards, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 ($64): This 100 percent Cabernet has a deep ruby color, bright, ripe berry aromas and flavors, good tannin and acid structure, and excellent length through the finish. Mountain-grown reds usually need a few years to settle down, but this Pride Cabernet is delicious now and will be even better with more age. 92
Schweiger Vineyards, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2001 ($38): Medium bright ruby color. The nose is subtle cherry-berry with oaky back notes. The flavors are medium-weight, fruity and nicely balanced. 88
Spring Mountain Vineyard, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Syrah 2003 ($50): Deep, inky color is impressive, and layered blackberry aromas dominate the nose. The flavors are dense and fruity with subtle smoky oak tones, all supported by a big tannin backbone. This youthful Syrah needs time in the bottle to show its lovely fruit. 89
Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2002 ($30): Delicate aromas and flavors of ripe pear the primary attraction in this wine, with nicely integrated mineral and citrus notes. It has lovely balance, subtle oak for texture and layered fruit through the lengthy finish. This is a Chardonnay that smells and tastes like Chardonnay. 92
Terra Valentine, Spring Mountain District (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($35): This mountain-grown red shows a deep, brilliant ruby color, with layered ripe berry aromas. The flavors are textured with ripe black fruits and hints of spice and licorice. It has excellent structure, but shows a bit of heat in the finish. 88
