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Misunderstanding Muscadet
By Mary Ewing-Mulligan
Oct 9, 2007
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Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire, France) Clos des Briords, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2006 ($15, Louis/Dressner Selections)

Domaine Luneau-Papin, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire, France) 'L d'Or' 1995 ($22, Louis/Dressner Selections)

Google 'Muscadet,' and you'll come up with references to good value wines, wines for hot weather, and wines for diabetics.  Muscadet, it seems, has been relegated to a remote fringe of the wine world populated by wines for special needs rather than the more desirable neighborhood of good quality, great-tasting wines.  Two things are wrong with this situation: one, it is unfair to the fine Muscadets that exist; and two, it deprives many wine lovers of experiencing the tremendous pleasure they might get from a bottle of Muscadet.

Recently over a dinner of raw clams and bouillabaisse at a French bistro in NYC, I sampled - no, to be perfectly honest, I drank - two completely different and completely terrific Muscadets.  One was a 2006, youthful and vibrant; the other was older than I would normally drink Muscadet, a 1995, and it was a compelling white wine.

For all its freshness and vibrancy, the younger of the two wines, the 2006 Clos des Briords single-vineyard Muscadet from Domaine de la Pépière, is a serious Muscadet.  It comes from vines that are more than 75 years old and has excellent concentration of fruit and mineral character.  It has a slight touch of CO2 that could cause you to free-associate and recall young, insubstantial whites that have immediate appeal but no real character - but of course the prickle of carbon dioxide is typical for young, classically-made Muscadets that remain on their lees until bottling.  And the wine goes beyond typical: it has a degree of concentration and an intensity of flavor greater than what we normally see even in good Muscadets.  It is richer and riper than the norm, and yet fresh as a seabreeze.

The older of the two wines, the 1995 'L d'Or' of Domaine Luneau-Papin, is a marvel.  It is this estate's top cuvée and according to the producer is typically a big, long-lived Muscadet. When first poured, it still has some CO2, but that characteristic gives way to a broad, slatey mineral presence that fills the mouth.  Its acidity is crisp, but otherwise this wine has richness and a sedate expression that Muscadet normally does not. Aromas and flavors of honey, grapefruit peel and floral notes are complex and carry long across the palate and into the finish.  In its development, its style, and its quality, this wine presents a whole different face of Muscadet. Although it is available, supplies are scarce.

These are two fantastic Muscadets for different tastes, different moods and different foods. The young Domaine de la Pépière is much better with raw clams and shellfish and also great with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella. The 'L d'Or' of Domaine Luneau-Papin has the weight and presence to accompany broccoli rabe crostini, mildly aged Gouda cheese or boulliabaise. They do have in common the characteristic of being best when nicely chilled. In that, I suppose, they fit the stereotype of Muscadet as a cold refresher in warm weather. Just remember that when Muuscadet is good, its charms don't stop there.

Domaine de la Pépière Clos des Briords 2006, 91 points
Domaine Luneau-Papin 'L d'Or' 1995, 93 points