This wine delights me in two ways. First, it's a Quincy (a Sauvignon Blanc-based wine from a tiny district in the central Loire) and therefore a fairly unusual find. Second, it's so thoroughly satisfying. It doesn't make a dramatic first impression the way a New Zealand or South African Sauvignon Blanc might, but the more I tasted the wine, the more it delivered. It's genuine, it's delicious, and it's high quality--all for about $17 a bottle.
The Quincy district is one of three less known wine zones in the Loire Valley, in the vicinity of the famous Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé zones. (Ménétou-Salon and Reuilly are the other two.) The sandy and gravelly vineyard area lies on the left bank of the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire. The Quincy appellation applies only to white wines, which must be crafted entirely from Sauvignon Blanc.
After an extremely hot 2003 vintage, 2004 was a cooler-than-normal growing season in this part of the Loire Valley until the first half of September, when heat hastened ripeningbut not to the extent that acid dropped too quickly in the grapes. The result is a return to "classic" wines--wines with fine, expressive aromas and flavors and fresh, lively structure.
The 2004 Domaine du Tremblay Quincy is a crisp, unoaked white wine. It's a quintessential Old World Sauvignon Blanc in that it is truly dry, its aromas and flavors are only moderately intense, and it is not particularly fruity. Sure, it has notes of lime on the nose and concentrated citrusy flavor in the mouth, but it also expresses strong minerally aromas and flavors. This minerality is particularly evident in the rear palate and finish. The wine's crisp acidity drives its flavors across the whole tongue, delivering great length, but it doesn't render it austere, because a soft, fluid flesh surrounds the acid backbone.
This is an ideal summer white, for sipping alone or with light fare such as salads, light fish dishes, shellfish or fresh vegetables. A terrific match is fresh goat cheese.
Outstanding: 90 Points
