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Wine With. . . Poached Salmon
by Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas
Salmon is America's favorite fish in part because you can prepare it in many different ways. Presented whole or cut into steaks or filets, it can be baked, poached, grilled, roasted, or smoked. You can serve it with a simple squeeze of lemon, or top it with Hollandaise or another lavish sauce. In addition to its culinary adaptability, salmon is remarkably versatile with wine. It complements all colors, and a wide variety of flavors.
We recently poached a generous salmon filet in a simple stock of equal parts chicken broth and white wine. After four or five minutes of gentle simmering, we transferred the fish to a serving platter and napped it with Mustard-Dill Sauce (see the recipe below). The whole process took less than 30 minutes to whip together, after which we sat down and sampled the results with an array of thirteen wines we'd opened for the occasion.
White, red or pink, the color of the wine had little impact on its compatibility with this particular dish. Stylistic character, however, definitely made the difference between 'yum' and 'yuck.' The acidity in the crisp whites we tried (a California Sauvignon Blanc, a Sancerre, and a Washington State Riesling) made the salmon taste unpleasantly fishy. At the other extreme, the tannins in a bold Rioja and the heavy oak in a Golden State Chardonnay rode roughshod over the dish. The top matches came in different colors, but they all were balanced and harmonious, with no single element dominating the show. Our conclusion was that when poached salmon is served with a medium-bodied sauce that is spiked with a hint of herbs and/or spice, an overabundance of acidity or tannin in the accompanying wine can render the experience jarring on the palate.
Mustard-Dill Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon minced shallots
¼ cup white wine
1 ½ teaspoons dried dill, or 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh dill
1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ cup heavy cream
1 cup unflavored yogurt (preferably Greek style)
Melt the butter and stir in the shallots. When they are tender, pour in the wine, turn up the heat, and cook until reduced by about half. Stir in the dill and mustard; then add the cream. Simmer for a couple of minutes until the sauce begins to thicken; then whisk in the yogurt.
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