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Wine With . . . Steak Tacos
by Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas
Cinco de Mayo celebrations these days are more about culture, food and music than a commemoration of an actual historical event. (The holiday marks the anniversary of the Mexican defeat of a French army in 1862, not the country's independence). We've decided to observe the occasion this year by serving grilled steak tacos--a menu decision inspired by a recent visit to wine country in the Mexican state of Baja, California.
The trip to Baja included tasting a number of truly impressive Mexican wines during a memorable dinner at Sano's Steak House, a restaurant in Ensenada that is known for its superb mesquite-grilled steak as well as its terrific all-Mexican wine list. Since los vinos mexicanos are scarce in Maryland, where we live, our goal was to find other wines to pour with our tacos on May 5th.
During an advance test run, we grilled a couple of rib-eye steaks, sliced them thin, and then folded the slices into warm tortillas. We added guacamole, sour cream and pico de gallo (a salsa of chopped fresh tomatoes, bell peppers, onion, finely minced jalapeno, lime juice, and minced cilantro). Of the thirteen wines we sampled with the tacos, we immediately eliminated an overly-sweet rosé and a sappy Merlot. It also became clear that lightweight wines simply can't stand up to steak, at least when it's cooked rare to medium-rare. A fine Cabernet Franc from Virginia and a Pinot Noir from California didn't make the cut for this reason.
At the other end of the spectrum, the wines that were aggressive in one way or another--an overabundance of oak, say, or high alcohol content--ran roughshod over the guacamole and other toppings. An otherwise delightful Syrah from Washington State, for example, was just too big for the tacos. Once we discarded both the delicate and the brawny wines, however, the dish proved adaptable to a wide range of vinous styles. What we learned from this experience is that grilled steak in the company of tortillas and Cinco de Mayo toppings is best paired with wines that are hearty yet not excessively endowed with oak, alcohol or tannin.
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Beaulieu Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon "Rutherford" 2002
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$27 |
We wondered whether the guacamole, sour cream, and spicy salsa would prevent Cabernet, a varietal that otherwise seems to have a natural affinity for grilled steak, from performing well with our tacos. The answer was a resounding no, as both Cabs we tried proved to be delicious with the dish. This was the firmer and more structured of the two, but the natural sweetness of its ripe Napa fruit allowed it to shine brightly.
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B. R. Cohn, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon "Silver Label" 2002
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$21 |
A sumptuous Cab, this wine had enough stuffing to stand up to the charred meat, but at the same time seemed seductively supple. Its soft tannins would make it a classy choice for an outdoor fiesta.
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Dolium, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2003
(Imported by Elite Wines)
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$12 |
The least expensive wine we tried was also one of the best--in part because of Malbec's naturally piquant character, and in part because of the impressively judicious use of oak in this particular bottling. The hint of vanilla enhanced the experience in large measure because it was just that--a hint.
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Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2003
(Imported by the Hess Group)
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$16 |
Here was a wine that seemed almost overly exuberant on its own but that calmed down and integrated nicely with the food. Its spicy personality complemented the slightly spicy dish.
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Spelt, Abruzzo (Italy) Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2001
(Imported by Dalla Terra)
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$21 |
Another wine with a spicy undertone, this Italian beauty impressed us both for its enticing flavors and its smooth texture. The guacamole, sour cream and soft tortillas made the tacos themselves seem smooth, and this wine enhanced the sensation.
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