Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Crianza (La Rioja, Spain) “Monte Real” 2021 ($16, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Established in 1890, Bodegas Riojanas is one of the traditional producers of Rioja, so it’s not surprising that they label their Riojas in the traditional way, by how long the wine has aged, as opposed what is becoming very popular in Rioja now, by geography. Labeling by aging helps the consumer because it’s a way to identify the wine’s character. Crianza must be aged for only a year in barrel and another one in bottle, which means the fruitier aspect of the wine still shows from underneath the oak influence. The snappy and mid-weight Monte Real Crianza fits that profile, leading with bright red fruitiness touched by a whiff of woody notes. It’s perfect for current drinking with anything from tomato-sauced pasta to grilled sausages.
91 Michael Apstein