Wine regions tend to become known for specific products. The mere mention of a region brings certain varieties to mind. New Zealand = Sauvignon Blanc, Argentina = Malbec, Napa Valley = Cabernet Sauvignon, and so on, but in almost all cases those regions also produce other varieties, and some of these expressions are world class. Of course, this doesn’t diminish the importance of the “identifier” varieties that put a particular region on the map at the outset. Yet, what it does mean is that a treasure trove of “others” often awaits you in your wine travels. A recent trip to Asolo, a “commune” about an hour northwest of Venice, serves as a great example.
Asolo is one of Italy’s old walled cities, complete with a Castello and a fortress, that has evolved into a beautiful village often referred to as “The Pearl of Treviso” or “The City of a Hundred Horizons” for its views of Monte Grappa, the Alps and the Dolomites to the northwest and all the way to Venice to the southeast. It’s right in the center of what is, as of 2009, the Prosecco DOC region, which encompasses most of the Veneto region and all of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. At the time when this vast Prosecco DOC region was established legally, two areas within Prosecco DOC were designated with the more elevated DOCG status: Conegliano – Valdobiaddene Prosecco Superiore DOCG — located in the center of the larger DOC northeast of the Piave River — and Asolo Prosecco DOCG, located just southwest of Conegliano – Valdobbiadene and set between the Piave River to the northeast and the Brenta River to the west in the foothills of Monte Grappa.
The term “Prosecco” itself continues to confuse the public a bit, so a little clarification is in order. Prosecco is a village near Trieste, and Prosecco was the name of the grape used to make the sparkling wine commonly known as Prosecco. The 2009 decision about DOC and DOCG borders also included the official renaming of the grape to Glera and altered the meaning of the word “Prosecco” to a protected geographical designation of Origin with DOC status, theoretically preventing other places in the world from using the Prosecco name (unless such places chose to cross swords with the European Union). In short, Glera is the grape that makes Prosecco wine, with small percentages of other locally grown grapes allowed for inclusion in blends for both DOC and DOCG wines.
The main thing that sets Asolo Prosecco Superiore apart from the general DOC are the soil types found in the Asolo district. Pebble and limestone, or calcareous soils, dominate the southern hillsides, and marl is prevalent in the northern section. This is thought to produce more acidic structure and to impart more citrus, pear and stony mineral character to the Glera-based wines than is found in Conegliano – Valdobbiadene or other areas in the larger DOC, which tend to impart more stone fruit aromas and flavors with a softer acid profile.
It’s worth noting a few numbers here to give you an idea of how large Prosecco (generally considered) looms in the marketplace: Asolo Prosecco’s 32 million bottle production in 2024 is just over three percent of overall Prosecco production, which means nearly a billion bottles of Prosecco came out for sale in 2024. So, if you’re doing your part as one of Earth’s eight billion or so residents, adjusting for various relevant factors, you likely purchased and/or consumed over two cases of Prosecco over the course of the year. Well done! Simone Morline, winemaker/owner of Martignago Vignaioli summed up Asolo’s niche well: “Prosecco DOC was big enough to get the word out to the world (and the product to back it up) to make the high-quality wines of Asolo a viable business prospect.”
With Prosecco given its due, what makes Asolo even more interesting is what I referred to above as the category of “other” that it offers to the world — two sub-appellations that produce wines that are not based on Glera, but on international varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and an indigenous variety called Recantina. This native grape follows on a host of others in Italy that are native to their regions that are being revived for production, the idea being that vines that have survived in a region are worth a fresh look for a couple of reasons. First, they have proved that they can survive local perils like disease, drought and invasive species. Second, with vineyard management practices and winemaking skills having improved over time, once dismissed or forgotten varieties might now make both economic and gustatory sense.
Asolo Montello DOC white wines include the white varieties Binchetta, Chardonnay, Manzoni Bianco, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio, and the red varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carmènere and Recantina. These can be blends or stand-alone varieties. Montello DOCG is a red wine appellation, and varieties allowed are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Carmènere. This side of the region features iron-rich clay soils that lend themselves well to these varieties.
I tasted a range of compelling wines from the region. Whether designated DOC, DOCG, white, pink, red, fizzy or still, there’s plenty to be excited about from Asolo. Here are some of my favorites:
Martignago Vignaioli, Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) Extra Brut NV: Martignano has been making a zero-dosage wine since 2012, but Extra Brut was not a designation at that time. This wine seems intended to be an elevation of the winery’s “Col Fondo” bottling, which is a non-disgorged, crown capped “naturale.” This comes off as more elegant, and somewhat ironically fresher – a modern version of the Col Fondo, for lack of a better term. It’s built for food, with the same sort of mouth-watering, front-of-tongue freshness, driven by stony minerality as opposed to fruit. The fruit will come out more with food. This is, quite simply, one of the best Prosecco offerings that I’ve tasted. 94
Brilla! Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) Brut NV: Excellent! Bordering on an Extra Dry with 13 grams of residual sugar, this is beautifully rendered. A rich, creamy texture carries golden apple fruit with citrus accents, and the finish is bright with a zesty burst lifting the finish. It’s the sort of fizz that you won’t be able to put down for all its freshness and zip. This is available in the USA along with several other regional bottlings. 93
Bedin, Asolo Montello DOC (Italy) Merlot “Tre e Venti” 2021: Only 2,000 bottles of this ridiculously strong value wine were produced, and not only was it definitely worth the effort, but will also definitely be worth your effort to try to locate a bottle…or six. After two years in French oak and a year resting in bottle, it offers bold Merlot character, with rich and concentrated aromas and flavors. It’s perfectly ripe, with a supple structure and a long finish. All this for 12 Euros? It’s fantastic now and will soften a bit over the next 5 years or so. Bravo! 94
Commendator Pozzobon, Montello Asolo DOC (Italy) Recantina “904” 2022: Recantina is a local variety that’s being revived. Though it’s not new, it has a new vibe thanks to multiple producers who are rendering it in a variety of styles. This is a potentially gorgeous wine made in an international style, with rich red fruit, complementary oak spice, bright acidity, and a supple grip. It’s long in its finish and very food friendly. Only 2000 bottles produced. 94
Giusti, Asolo Montello DOC (Italy) Recantina “Matteociei, Anfora, Tenuta Aria Valentina” 2021: It makes sense that someone would take Recantina — an old indigenous variety that is being given new life in the region — and treat it in an old way in the winery. Vinified using whole clusters while employing clay amphorae, it shows the red fruit side of the variety, with light color and kirsch-like aromas and flavors complemented by warm peppery notes. Stem and skin tannins make for a firm grip that serves the fruit well, keeping the wine both rich and taut at once. Completely unique and quite compelling. 94
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Finally, congratulations to the members of the Consorzio Vini Asolo Montello on celebrating their 40th anniversary. Their future looks bright from my perspective on what they are achieving in relation to the broader world of wine. More reviews of wines I tasted when visiting the region recently will appear here on WRO during the next few weeks, demonstrating the range and quality of wines available from the region. There is also much to see for those inclined to explore the region when traveling. A rich history of characters left their mark in the area over several centuries, including sculptor Antonio Canova, whose spectacular plaster renderings are housed in the Gypsotheca Museo Canoviano at his childhood home. I highly recommend devoting a few days to visiting the area if you find yourself in Venice or Verona – for the wine, the people and the beauty. I am already planning a return trip to the area to dig more deeply into the riches it offers
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Special thanks to Silvia Baratta and Linda Bison of the Gheusis agency for arranging visits and tastings – Grazie Mille!