Thanks to the London-based Bordeaux Index wine trading company, I tasted top-flight Bordeaux from the 2015 vintage, “10 years on.” Bordeaux Index hosted the daylong January tasting under excellent conditions, including wines served at proper temperatures, fine stemware, and plenty of space to taste with concentration in comfort.
Although 10 years is not that old for Bordeaux – many attain prime drinking windows at 20 or even 30 years of age – it was great to re-assess a vintage that was highly regarded upon release.
The wines continue to mirror a vintage that was ripe and sunny. High alcohol levels indeed contrast with the cooler 2014 vintage. Some vines suffered from heat stress and drought, with vines temporarily shutting down. But it should be noted that August was cooler and rainier than expected in 2015, which, in some locations, freshened the grapes. Variable rains towards harvest also determined quality. For example, the northern Médoc saw more rainfall during this crucial period than the southern Médoc, which explains why Margaux is considered an appellation star from the Left Bank in 2015.
On the Right Bank, some estates in Saint-Émilion were still in the grip of the so-called “modern style” of winemaking, with near over-ripeness in the fruit resulting in high alcohol that could leach excessive oak tannins during barrel aging, leading to drying sensations on the palate. For example, Château Troplong Mondot is more about alcohol than fruit, and it suffers due to that, 10 years on. Even the great terroir of Château Pavie remains masked by oak tannins when the 2015 is tasted now in 2025.
Overall, however, the London tasting featured mainly top-notch wines such as superlative Saint-Émilion wines for consumers to enjoy, as well as fantastic Pomerols. The Médoc wines in the tasting included many wines of balance and power, even if not reaching the level of finesse from the 2016 vintage, which I prefer to 2015.
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Château Quintus: I like the gentle feel to this wine, aging well, displaying mellow class and elegance, via ripe plum and blackberry fruit with understated sumptuousness. The blend of 76% Merlot and 24% Cabernet Franc was aged in less than 40% new oak, which was a judicious choice given its 15% alcohol. Medium finish. Special mention for the second wine, Dragon Quintus, smooth and easygoing, balanced and agreeable. 94
Château Laroze: Back in 2018, I liked how this wine showed shortly after bottling. However, its “modern style” – 10 years on – has not developed as well as one might have hoped, with a sense of over-extracted, oak-derived tannins contributing to a rustic profile. It comes across a bit out of balance, too. I’m not sure this is worth any cellaring at this stage. Drink up. 90
Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé
Château Ausone Premier “A”: Wet stone aromas leap from the glass, indicating this as a textbook elixir marked by its limestone terroir. Blending equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Ausone managed to outshine almost all other limestone plateau estates in this horizontal tasting – Canon excepted – by sheer depth, refinement and nuance, reflecting ripe plum and mint freshness (but transcending such subjective flavor descriptions with a sense of subtle majesty). It leads to a long, fresh, white flower finish that echoes beguiling wet stone. At 14.5% alcohol, Ausone was aged in 85% new oak (less than the typical 100% from previous years—a good decision) for about 20 months. A stupendous wine, this is one that will show better over the next 20 years. Even if Ausone has more depth, it still seems relatively closed now when compared to the more open-knit and more accessible Canon. For current drinking, Canon communicates more pleasure. 99
Château Beauséjour Duffau Lagarrosse: Engaging, juicy blackberry and distinct wet stone aromas emanate from this blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, suggesting a sort of aromatic density. The juicy palate is delivered in a somewhat “Old School” fashion, with less “sheen” than encountered in wines made more recently. Back in 2015, Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt were chief winemakers. This offers a veritable mouthful of full-bodied wine, quite deep and delectable – as a rich vintage like 2015 should be. It displays admirable backing acidity, with a bright, somewhat candied fruit-like finish. Splitting hairs, the finish comes off just a tad hard, as compared to Château Canon, which I prefer. 14.5% alcohol. 96
Château Bélair-Monange: This blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc reflects elegance. But to prove the point that tasting wine is like a moving picture, I had a more positive experience at this London horizontal with peers from the same vintage than I did at a vertical tasting at the estate in July last year, where the 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages proved better. While the 15% alcohol is felt to some extent, Bélair-Monange evinces refined precision and linearity, with orange rind freshness in a long finish. Gorgeous. 97
Château Canon: A momentous wine that is full bodied, with notes of juicy blackberry, crackling fresh cranberry and violets. The layered palate offers delightful texture, with subtle opulence framed by wet stone linearity and precision. The 15% alcohol is well balanced by the acidity, and the long finish conveys savory freshness. This was the first full vintage for Nicolas Audebert as director, after he had replaced John Kolasa. The wine is a blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc that was aged 18 months in 70% new oak. 100
Château Cheval Blanc Premier “A”: One of the veritable wines of the vintage, this blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc exudes distinct notes of crushed tobacco, pencil lead, and suggestions of ripe black and red fruits. It features refined tannins, supreme palate finesse, and a nearly endless finish with floral lift to match bright, primary fruit. While some estates in 2015 from this appellation evidently produced ultra-ripe grapes and over-extracted oak tannin, the 50% new oak used for 15 months aging here was just the ticket. It shows no oaky tannins leached from wood due to its 14.5 per cent alcohol, thereby offering a sense of exciting balance. In a word: glorious. 100
Château Figeac: A smooth wine that reflects pleasing ripe fruit and polished tannins – albeit with a smidgeon of Michel Rolland “gloss,” as this vintage was his second as estate consultant. The 2016 is clearly better, but I like the juicy blackberry fruit shown on the mid-palate, its depth of flavor, and long finish marked by mint-like freshness. 97
Château Pavie: For a topflight Premier, this 2015 is a relative disappointment. The blend of 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon clocking in at 14.55% alcohol had been aged in 80% new oak and 20% one-year-old barrels. In 2015, the estate was still in the grip of the “modernist style,” and 10 years on, this wine reflects too much oak tannin extraction, drying out the palate, with even some astringency on the finish. Sure, you get ripe mid-palate fruit and depth, but the sum of the parts is dominated by oak extraction. Lovers of this style can sing its praises. I’ll pass.
Château Troplong Mondot: The label indicates 15.5% alcohol, but the wine tastes as though the level is even higher. Its overall profile seems more like alcohol and less like fruit. This has not aged very well over 10 years’ time. An easy pass.
Château Valandraud: For a wine that was full of near overripe fruit from barrel and intensively concentrated with plenty of oak derived tannins, it shows admirable development 10 years on. Yes, I sense new oak-derived tannin leached from the high alcohol, in this case 15%, with some concomitant drying tannin on the finish. However, Valandraud also delivers power and savory flavors of blackberry and plum at this stage, which is to say, it is showing better now than I was expecting. 94+
Pomerol
Château Clinet: My perplexed reaction back in 2018 when this wine had been bottled has given way to a highly favorable impression based on the London tasting. This blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet (mainly Sauvignon), which had been aged in 65% new oak, is superb after a decade. It opens with a bright attack of ripe fruit, then a supple richness on the palate, delivered with smooth tannins. A lovely burst of ripe fruit on the mid-palate is accentuated by a sense of refined chocolate, leading to a long, clean finish. Fine balance overall. 96
Château La Conseillante: A superlative effort, and an improvement since tasted from bottle back in 2017. The ripe fruit and depth remain, but now with burgeoning complexity compared to the earlier experience. I love the energy and balance, promising a long, happy life. The blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, which had aged 18 months in 70% new oak, is rather tangy for the 2015 vintage, to be paired easily with fine cuisine now. One of the very best Pomerols from the vintage in its price category – and a relative bargain for premium Pomerol. 14.5% alcohol. 98
Château L’Evangile: This tasting left me puzzled regarding this wine. I loved it back in 2018, after it had been recently bottled. But 10 years on, I feel the heat of the 15.5% alcohol. The effect isn’t as harsh as with Troplong Mondot, because L’Evangile retains a fabulously opulent and seductive style, with fruit ripeness that seduces, along with velvety texture. But the alcoholic heat prevents me from giving this blend of 84% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc, aged in 80% new oak, a higher score. Nextdoor neighbors La Conseillante and Vieux Château Certan produced more balanced 2015s, leading a purist to say “New World style” for L’Evangile. But if you enjoy a full-bodied glass of wine, you won’t be disappointed here! 95
Château Gazin: I wanted to like Gazin more at this tasting, because it started out so nicely with violet, plum and juicy blackberry. But this blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, at about 14.5% alcohol, had already shown some oak-derived tannins back in 2018 when I last tried it. Ten years on, the oak tannins seem more present, with a finish that dries out a touch because of that oak derivation. 93
Château Hosanna: This wine has developed nicely since I tasted it in 2018 from bottle. Back then, the old vine Cabernet Franc brought forth cigar box-like aromatics, framing a tannic and “serious wine” that, I wrote then, “needs at least 10 years of cellaring before it would be ready to properly enjoy.” Currently, the wine reflects evolution, already showing some brick-ish hue on the rim. This blend of 82% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc has loosened up, with mid-palate juiciness and clean ripe fruit, as well as lovely palate depth previously experienced but now “more accessible” because the wine presents as being less tannic. A suave wine, with slightly plum jam flavors reflecting the high (15%) alcohol. Long finish. 96
Château Lafleur: Such enveloping richness, bright ripe fruit – not jammy – textural nuance and palate verve combine to yield an undeniably seductive and sexy wine! This blend of 51% Merlot and 49% Cabernet Franc evinces tobacco leaf and showstopping ripe black fruit. It was part of the final, fantastic trio of wines at the London tasting that included Petrus and Le Pin. It shows an incredibly long finish. Especially taking price into account, the best “deal” for those readers who can afford such wines. It clocks in at 15% alcohol. 100
Château Lafleur Gazin: At 14.5% alcohol, I like the freshness and tannic grip from this nearly 100% Merlot wine. It wasn’t quite as evolved as some others in the lineup, with a minty, fresh aspect. The wine has improved since I last tasted it in 2018. Back then, the tannins seemed comparatively austere and even a bit rustic. While they are not as smooth as the top tier wines from Pomerol, they propose a fine wine at a very fair price. 93
Château Lafleur Petrus: An excellent follow-up compared to how the wine tasted after just being bottled in 2018. This blend of 93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc exudes floral elegance, richness and gravitas. The 15% alcohol is balanced enough in the refined palate, which shows evolution in the form of tertiary wet leaf aspects along with bright red berry fruit. It is in a sweet drinking spot at this stage. It shows a touch of heat on the finish, as I had noted in 2018, preventing a higher score—though this still earns a high one. 96
Château Lagrange à Pomerol: This blend of 96% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc at 14% alcohol shows some bricking on the rim, reflected in gustatory evolution with tertiary notes—specifically, forest floor to go with ripe fruit. A touch warm. Serve with roast pork chops in a mushroom sauce. Pleasing wine. 92+
Château Latour à Pomerol: At 14.5% alcohol, this blend of 96% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc has not developed as well as it might have, compared to when it had been bottled in 2017. Although it conveys ripe fruit, floral and graphite aromatics and flavors, in a suave and rather velvety palate, it has lost the tannic edge that I liked so much before. The result is a too openly-knit profile when compared to superior efforts from the appellation in 2015. The good news is that there are burgeoning tertiary notes for complexity, and even if that suggests a fast evolutionary pace, the wine is in a pleasing drinking window. Medium finish. 94
Château Nenin: This estate has sometimes been known as the Pauillac of Pomerol for exuding more tannic power and not being as sumptuously pleasing as other Pomerols. The 2015 fits that bill. Blending 67% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Franc, the wine was aged in 35 percent new oak. I like the pencil lead aromas, and it is aging nicely, showing off ripe fruit and palate nuance. It just misses a higher score, as the finish comes off a bit hard. 94
Petrus: A wine of the vintage. Petrus proves its mettle, developing beautifully since I tasted it back in 2018, with layers of ripe, opulent fruit, fine dark chocolate, endless juiciness, and textural finesse and depth. The 50% new oak (as ever) has proved judicious for aging, not leaching too much new oak tannin from the high alcohol. A low 3.5 pH reflects needed acidity to balance the 15% alcohol. Clearly, Petrus has more depth than Lafleur, but – at this stage – my personal preference is for the slightly more pristine and cooler balance at Lafleur, which also applies to Lafleur’s price. 100
Château Le Pin: At 14.5% alcohol, this wine amazes with precision and opulence expressed in beguilingly bright red fruit, juicy blackberry, spices and floral perfume. The palate is both sumptuous and structured, with tannins as smooth as silk. A beautiful wine with no loose ends and a long finish that you can enjoy already or cellar for more complexity over the next two or three decades. 99
Vieux Château Certan: 15% alcohol was the “highest level that we can recall,” remarked Alexandre Thienpont when I tasted this wine back in 2018 at the estate. Coupled with a high 80 IPT tannin index, the VCC then came across powerfully stirring. But this blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and one percent Cabernet Sauvignon has become – 10 years into its development – suppler, smoother, rounder, with suave refined tannins. The wine exudes Médoc-like graphite, along with red and black fruit, alluring vegetal aspects, such as tomato leaf, and licorice. The powerful stir is today quieter power, without heaviness. Showing an impressively long finish, this is a top tier wine for its price category! 98
Château Trotanoy: Already in 2018, after it had been recently bottled, the wine felt like a caged beast, or armored car…choose your analogy. At this stage, this blend of 93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc still stresses power, with great depth, but somewhat stolid overall when compared to the finesse in comparatively priced wines like Vieux Château Certan or La Conseillante. Time in glass yields savory aspects, but this wine demands another decade of cellaring before it will be open for business. Conservative score. 96
Pessac-Léognan
Domaine de Chevalier: The autumnal aspect to this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot reflects cooler blue rather than dark fruit notes. Since I last tasted it several years ago, the tannins have smoothed out, with Graves tobacco leaf rising in prominence. I recall owner Olivier Bernard stressing “luxury of time” for picking in October, and the estate’s cooler microclimate indeed lends freshness. For the vintage, the alcohol is rather modest, at 13.5%. A wine to enjoy now and over the next three decades, when it will add tertiary complexity. 95
Château Haut Brion: A tour de force in finesse, as this blend of 50% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc exhibits remarkable freshness for its nearly 15% alcohol. Bright, red juicy fruit, sage, tobacco leaf, orange rind, Ceylon tea and fragrant sandalwood count among the aromas, and yet this wine seems caught in a slightly closed phase, with the high tone accentuated by tannin now dominating the palate. Having aged 18 months in 78% new oak, Haut Brion strikes fascinating balance between fruit ripeness and acidity, with a palate of depth and regal elegance, but it won’t truly hit its stride before another 10 years in the cellar. Long finish, naturellement. 99
Château La Mission Haut Brion: More vivid than its sibling Haut Brion with respect to enchanting cigar box/tobacco notes, this wine conveys power with a touch of headiness, evincing the 15% alcohol. But what delectable palate succulence! The blend of 58% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc enchants with generous juicy black plum, graphite, subtle notes of earthy, wet stone and lots of Graves tobacco. Very long finish. 99
Château Smith Haut Lafitte: This estate continues to excel, and the owners have crafted a hard-to-resist , full-bodied wine with tangy, ripe fruit, showing well 10 years on, with gorgeous mid-palate depth. The blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot – which had aged in 60% new oak – reflects freshness too, in the form of orange rind lift on the long finish. 96
Margaux
Château Brane Cantenac: Lovely wine, with energy and spine. Brane-Cantenac is aromatically compelling, combining bright red berry fruit, juicy blackberry, cassis, lavender, faded rose and pepper. A palate of grip and verve make this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Carménère one of the best wines in its price category in 2015. And at a rather decent price: I bought a bottle last month for $95 at MacArthur Beverages in Washington D.C. 13.5% alcohol. 97
Château Margaux: An amazing Cabernet-driven wine, marking the 200th anniversary of the estate, combining elegance with power. Just as I had noted in 2018, the stars aligned to yield exceptional wine of gorgeous, juicy dark fruit and floral (violet) notes with aeration. The 3.65 pH brings needed balance to the ripe fruit and rather high alcohol (about 14%). One cannot praise enough its suave tannins, with the 100% new oak used for aging now seamlessly integrated. The precision of 96 fermentation tanks affords careful parcel-by-parcel vinification, with only 35 percent of the harvest going into this first wine. 100
Château Palmer: What a difference compared to my tasting experience when this wine had just been bottled. This blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot at that time conveyed a somewhat tight aspect that prevented me from adoring it. But vivid expressions of ripe fruit come to the fore, the tannic power matched by nuance and refinement. Clocking in at 14% alcohol, the wine compelled the words “utterly stupendous” on my tasting sheet in London. Palmer has breadth, depth and focus. The gloriously ripe fruit leads to orange-like freshness in a super long finish to be counted in minutes rather the seconds. Don’t hesitate. 99
Château Rauzan-Segla: One of my favorite wines when it had been bottled, this estate remains impressive for impressive, full-bodied depth and plenty of ripe cassis and suave tannin. And yet the structure and power – an iron like glove – obstructs a bit the nuance needed for a higher score at this point. I would chalk that up to the blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc keeping the wine slightly closed. Just a bit strict on the palate. Wait another five to 10 years for a proper drinking window. 95+
Saint-Julien
Château Beychevelle: An improvement over its performance just after bottling, this blend of 47% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot and offers nuanced pleasure delivered with savory ripe black and red fruit, but also appealing tannins. It is not only smooth, but also layered. It also is a wine that refreshes, that gives you a thirst-quenching sense, and, for that, a wine that would pair well with many foods, from roasted chicken à l’orange to truffle risotto. 95
Château Leoville Poyferré: It is hard to resist the hedonistic style in this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. From the bright attack to the rather plush mid palate of ripe blackberry, cool blueberry, juicy plum and graphite, the wine reflects the polished tannic aspect that is an estate signature. With 13.5% alcohol, is features a long finish. Still, I think 2016 outclasses this vintage. 96
Château Léoville Las Cases: Clocking in at 13.5% alcohol, this Cabernet-driven blend (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Merlot) exudes power with ripe cassis, blackberry and graphite leading to a long finish marked by orange blossom freshness. It is a well-balanced wine. While it does not match the fascinating 2016 vintage’s tension, the good news is that – at this stage – Léoville Las Cases is not as closed as one might expect, which means you can enjoy it now. It will gain in tertiary complexity and age gracefully over the next 40 years. 97
Pauillac
Château Grand Puy Lacoste: Especially considering its price, this is a lovely “straight on” Pauillac of supple ripe red berry and plum fruit – bright and tangy – somewhat like Château Beychevelle further to the south. While impressive, this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc does not quite match the opulence, power and length of fellow Pauillac 5th Growth Lynch Bages, but GPL is still very good – at half the Lynch Bages price. 94
Château Lynch Bages: I am impressed by how this wine has improved since I first tasted it from bottle back in 2017. Back then, it was tannic and closed, albeit showing ripe fruit and power. But now, this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot exhibits deep, dark ripe fruit aromas – a gorgeous expression of black fruit – along with aniseed, herbal and floral aspects, and classic Pauillac graphite/lead pencil. Vivid and long. 13.5% alcohol. 95+
Château Lafite Rothschild: This is a wine of diaphanous finesse. The blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot clocking in at 12.5% alcohol reveals graphite, cool blue fruit and cassis. The palate unveils a sense of subtle power that slowly builds to a long finish. Having said all that, Lafite lacks the excitement of the 2016 vintage, and while it performs very well in 2015, it is not top notch either. 96+
Château Latour: Here we have excellent Pauillac revealing impressive power and grip. The first aroma you get is vivid lead pencil, across the palate. Indeed, there is this marvelous Old School feeling delivered with mid-palate juiciness. Time in glass reveals more aromatic complexity: cigar box, Ceylon tea, white flower, wet stone and iodine freshness. Yes, very Cabernet driven, this is comprised of 97.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot, and 0.3% Petit Verdot. Long finish. 98
Château Mouton Rothschild: This blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc clocking in at 13.5% alcohol has a brisk nose with an effortless variety of aromas and flavors including espresso, juicy blackberry, raspberry, crème de cassis, lead pencil and white flower. I love the subtle intensity and the creamy mid-palate. While it does not match the power of Château Latour or the finesse of Lafite, it pleases with its sumptuousness – and impressive length. 97+
Château Pichon Longueville Baron: The words delicious, ample, smooth and exuberant come to mind when tasting this blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. Simply excellent Pauillac, the Baron conveys confident, classy Cabernet expressions recalling pencil lead, tobacco, cool blue and rich black fruit. A wine of breed and impressive length. 96
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande: A superlative effort from this “Super Second,” with silk tannins, subtle power and joyful mid palate juiciness! Bright fruit and spring flower aromas lead to a mid-palate of amazing depth, then a long finish marked by intriguing wet stone minerality. The blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot with some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot conveys, as the French say, de la sève. 97
Saint-Estèphe
Château Calon Ségur: This wine has turned out very nicely after a decade of development. It is smooth, nuanced and refined in its expression of cool blue fruit and graphite. While this blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot lacks the impressive depth of, say, Pichon Baron or Montrose, it carries a more affordable price tag. 13.5% alcohol. 95
Château Cos d’Estournel: With several additional years in bottle since I last tried it in 2018, Cos d’Estournel has improved. Sure, the 60mm of rain in Saint Estèphe proved challenging, but the prime terroir of this “Super Second” yields wine of depth and richness, reflecting tobacco leaf, cassis and mid-palate plum richness. From start to finish, this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc exhibits a svelte palate with subtle spice, opulent but not showy. Let’s call it “smooth classicism.” Excellent! 13.5% alcohol. 96
Château Montrose: This blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc delivers pencil lead focus, reflecting a more “classical” profile than Cos d’Estournel, one that is less ostentatious, not as spicy, but just as smooth and refined. At 13.5% alcohol, I admire the mid-palate juiciness with no drying whatsoever on the long finish. 96
Château de Pez: This estate rises above the vintage character for Saint-Estèphe with lovely ripe fruit, mid palate sap and smooth tannin. A truly fine wine at an economical price. 94
Château Tronquoy Lalande: A wine with bright ripe fruit, rather simple in expression when compared to the classified growths. It does show a touch drying on the finish. For the price, delicious wine to drink now to enjoy its primary fruit aspect. 92