Once in a while in the ever-interesting process of sampling wines for possible review here on Wine Review Online, sometimes a mystery presents itself. Before I get into the solving part, let’s begin with a little background….
In addition to the task of tasting sample submissions I occasionally (okay, maybe more than occasionally) open a bottle of wine simply to drink a glass or two. Maybe a bottle that I’ve purchased after a tasting room visit, or even better, a bottle given by a good friend. I generally don’t have any intention of writing about such bottles, but once in a great while one of them simply demands that I spread the good news.
Such was the case with the bottle reviewed here. It came to me as a birthday gift from a friend, and we opened it together a few weeks ago. This friend would tell you that it is unlike me to go on and on about a great wine in that sort of setting, but this was no ordinary glass of fizz. Not writing something about this wine was out of the question.
Which leads to the mystery. The wine in question is designated as a “Reserve.” In California, the word has no legal meaning or definition like it might in other wine producing countries. It can mean whatever the producer wants it to mean, and it’s often just a marketing term slapped on a label in hopes of boosting sales. Obviously, that wasn’t the case here, and as I was familiar with the “regular” iteration of this wine, I sought out the pricing. A visit to the website showed me the regular bottling, the photo you see above, and a price of $68. But the Reserve bottle was nowhere to be found. I put my sleuthing boots on and went to work.
When dropping a big score on a wine, it’s important to get the details right. It’s not fair to producer or consumer to just get close – a review and/or score must be able to be reliably tied to the specific product. So, after a string of phone calls, texts and emails, I hit the jackpot. The “regular” bottling was released in 2023 after 1.5 years en tirage and is available at select restaurants and fine retailers. The Reserve comes from the same lot, but spent three years en tirage prior to being released in early 2025 for purchase through the winery only.
I’d recommend getting a bottle of each if you can, so you can experience what a difference some additional time on lees after the second fermentation can make. Oh – and the kicker is that the two bottles are offered at the same price. The general manager of the winery called the Reserve “a small labor of love.” I call it royally delicious. Smiles all around!
Let’s end the suspense…here it is:
Gloria Ferrer, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Sparkling Wine “Reserve Royal Cuvée Rosé” 2021 ($68): This is the best wine I’ve tasted from this producer, and that’s saying a lot when considering their extensive sparkling wine lineup consisting of terrific wines from top to bottom. I can’t recall tasting a Rosé with this kind of aromatic power. Strawberry and fresh lemon leap from the bottle upon opening and flood the room as you pour a glass. Closer examination reveals layers of fresh red fruits, blueberry, stony mineral notes, and hints of toast and spice that translate directly to palate flavors and ride racy acidity through a seemingly unending finish. A truly spectacular sparkler. Contains 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. 100