Forty years is a noteworthy anniversary, even if it’s not the golden fiftieth. Those who experience a fortieth anniversary grasp the expanse of time that it represents and the fullness of life that transpired during those years. I shared a fortieth anniversary with my late husband, Ed McCarthy, and celebrated a fortieth anniversary of my wine school, International Wine Center. I can vouch that forty years is not nothing.
The Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region is far more than 40 years old, but the winery is celebrating a significant fortieth anniversary this year for its sparkling wines. The winery’s first vinifera grapes for a classic-method sparkling wine were harvested in 1985 and marked a milestone as the first NY State sparkling wine produced with vinifera grapes.
The hero of the sparkling wine story is Willy Frank, son of Ukrainian immigrant and vinifera grapes champion, Dr. Konstantin Frank himself. In 1980, Willy and his wife purchased an old wine cellar where sparkling wines had once been made from native or hybrid grapes. His idea was to plant the classic vinifera grapes that are the basis for Champagne — Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. His work heralded a new era for the Finger Lakes wine region.
To mark this anniversary, the winery has released a 2021 Brut “Cuvée 85” Finger Lakes Sparkling Wine ($85). The wine’s dosage derives from the landmark 1985 wine. The wine is a blend of 55 percent Chardonnay, 40 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Pinot Meunier. Five percent of the Chardonnay component was fermented in barrel before blending. They both register at 8 grams/liter residual sugar.
A separate 2021 Brut, minus the enhancement of the 40-year-old wine, also exists ($35). Its stats are the same as the “Cuvée 85” in terms of grape varieties and dryness level, but its taste is distinctly different.
The 2021 Brut is a medium bodied, dry bubbly with fresh, ebullient aromas of peach, baked apple, caramel and blossom and, on the palate, notes of bread, nut and toast as well. It shows concentration of flavor and a depth of fruit expression that fills the mouth. Its finish is creamy; in time the wine will be creamy in texture also, but for now its exuberance steals the show.
The 2021 “Cuvée 85” Brut carries things forward a notch in development and complexity. This wine seems more mature. Its aroma is nutty like almonds, honeyed, and bready like brioche, aromas suggesting development. But fresh notes of fruit and blossom intermingle with the mature aromas. In the mouth the wine is full, rich and dry. Its CO2 is integrated as in an aged sparkler, and this feature enables the creamy texture to shine. The finish is creamy and enduring.
The lineup of classic-method sparkling wines from Dr. Konstantin Frank also includes a fine 2021 Blanc de Blanc and 2020 Blanc de Noirs (each $45) that are worth trying.