Everybody who cares about wine knows that sales have dipped recently, and among the possible causes that have been hypothesized, I know for sure that one is a real factor: There are so many wines available for sale that anyone inclined to start buying is likely to be intimidated. Moreover, just as the number of possible choices has become more daunting as giant retailers have become more prominent, online reviewers have also proliferated. Who to trust when deciding what to buy?
Of course, one of my answers is that you should trust Wine Review Online, as we’re not a “pop-up” review website, but rather an established source of advice approaching our 20th anniversary in August of this year. But another answer is that truly rigorous wine competitions yield results that pack serious credibility that’s worthy of your trust. Let me explain.
Most consumers aren’t aware of what is required for a wine to earn one of the very top awards in a respected competition. A panel of three judges needs to agree that a wine they’ve tasting “blind” (knowing only the general category) is not merely deserving of a Silver or Gold medal that corresponds to high a point score, but a Platinum award.
Doing that entails sending a bottle—one the three judges haven’t yet seen—up for additional scrutiny by the Competition Director and the Chief Judge, who scrutinize the judging panel as well as the wine it deemed deserving of the highest award. Easier for the judges to just give the wine Gold, right? Yes, that’s exactly right—unless the wine proves so compelling to all three judges that they elect to stick their necks out to reach a consensus on its behalf.
Last weekend, a group of distinguished judges worked through a vast number of wines to see which entries merited the sticking out of their necks. What follows is a rundown of the Platinum Award winners, with reviews written either by Rich Cook (the Competition Director), or by me as Chief Wine Judge. We engaged in independent assessments of the wines that were put forward, so you’ll see a name indicating the author of the review, in keeping with Wine Review Online’s uniform practice of connecting both the verbiage and score for every wine to an individual rather than just the publication. The wines appear in alphabetical order as well as in order of score awarded either by Rich or by me, with suggested retail prices.
An important aside is that the full title of the competition is, “San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge,” and that spirits were also judged by a panel. You can find your way to the winning entries soon at Spirits Review Online. As for the wines, it will be worth your while to scan the entire list below to learn which ones managed to successfully run the gauntlet I’ve described above to earn Platinum Awards.
One last point to return to my initial observation about top competition results meriting the trust of would-be buyers seeking credible advice. Blind-tasting competitions take the biases of reputation and packaging out of play and concentrate solely on the merits of the juice. Not surprisingly, many expensive bottles rise to the top, but surprisingly and much more illuminating is the fact that some much less expensive wines get to show their strength in overall quality regardless of price. It is certainly true that newcomers to wine will be somewhat hesitant to spring for very expensive bottles, so the wines listed by category type below include some terrific values as well as exceptional “special occasion” wines:
RED:
Ledson Winery (Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County) Red Blend “Cepage” 2021 ($110): This borders on being a member of the “blockbuster” red category—of which I am not much of a fan—and yet the quality of the components and skill in the cellar have resulted in a wine of very high sophistication on a very big frame. Oak scents are evident but alluring rather than distracting, and though the wine is quite weighty, the flavors remain pure as well as powerful. The blend is 84% Cab Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Cab Franc, 2% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. This is sufficiently soft that it could be enjoyed now with rich stews or something like braised lamb shanks, but it would benefit from a couple of years of additional time in bottle. Bloody impressive wine. Michael Franz 97
J. Lohr Vineyards (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Red Blend “Cuvée POM” 2022 ($50): In the category we might call, “Big-Time California Red Blends,” this is a top performer that doesn’t have the giant price tag typically attached to the genre. Nearly opaque and very darkly pigmented, it is a blend of 40% Merlot, 35% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Those proportions indicate it wasn’t made to kick down the proverbial door with Cabernet’s flavor impact and tannins, yet there is nothing “shy” about the wine; “civilized” would be more appropriate. But make no mistake, this is powerful—just not punishing. Michael Franz 96
Rodney Strong Vineyards (Sonoma County) Red Wine “Symmetry” 2019 ($70). This meaty blend has benefitted from a few years in bottle, now showing some real sophistication and complexity with tertiary notes poking out of the dark fruit. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Still very dark, with no hint of browning at the rim, it remains driven by primary fruit notes, but with savory characters as well as a carpaccio note that makes this “meaty” in flavor as well as texture. This is pricey, and yet a strong value thanks to its complexity and overall quality. Michael Franz 96
Wakefield (Clare Valley, South Australia) St Andrews Shiraz 2022 ($80) This is a big, bold Shiraz, but perhaps not in the sense that everyone would read that description. It is quite concentrated and yet doesn’t come across as physically “thick,” and though it offers intense flavor impact on the palate, it isn’t oaky or over-ripe or lacking for freshness as a counterpoint to its intensity. This producer isn’t as widely known around the USA as the wines merit, and I rarely see them where I live on the East Coast, but they are worth a search—wherever you need to search. Michael Franz 96
McIlroy Cellars (Russian River Valley, California) Vines & Roses Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 ($65): Substantial and generously flavored – and not only on account of its youth – this is a serious Pinot that is drinking well already but will only get better for at least another five years. The oak signature is not deeply etched but there is some evident spice and a little whiff of toast, yet fruit holds center stage. Dark tones are at least as prominent as red ones, with dark berries and cherries running ahead of strawberry suggestions. Serious juice that was well grown and made. Michael Franz 95
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards (Umpqua Valley, Oregon) Estate “Estate Selection” 2022 ($39): This wine as well as the rendition from 2023 are both exceptional, and though the more recent vintage now seems to pack a bit more punch, I marginally prefer this 2022 on account of more complete integration. It shows a distinctly black fruit character reminiscent of Cornas in the northern Rhône, as opposed to the raspberry character that is sometimes found in Crozes Hermitage—in case you find Old World context helpful. Regardless of that, it is loaded with palate impact but not with wood, so it can be enjoyed now with braised or grilled meats or hard cheeses. But cellar this for a few more years if you can summon sufficient patience. Michael Franz 95
St. Francis (Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “Artisan Collection” 2022 ($54): The proprietary name “Artisan” certainly is apt here. A masterfully realized blend of vineyards can only come from a true artisan in the winery. Katie Madigan has been at this for a while, and St. Francis is among the most consistent Zinfandel producers in the state. I’m a fan of her style preferences. This is truly dry, with pepper in balance with the fruit, judicious oak use in a way that accentuates the fruit while adding structure. On top of all that, it features layered aromatics and flavors, along with age-worthiness. Well done! Rich Cook 95
Three Stars Wine (Napa Valley) Tucker Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($95): It comes as a pleasant surprise that this very fine Napa Cabernet is still on offer from the outstanding 2021 vintage, but we’ll take good news where we can find it. Very deeply pigmented and densely concentrated, it is certainly not a sipping wine, as it is loaded with tannins and clearly requires robust food, but a grilled steak will do the trick. The wood is largely integrated at this stage, but the tannins are likely to outlast the fruit at some point not far distant, so go for this when you go big for dinner before long. Michael Franz 95
Wakefield (Clare Valley, South Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “St Andrews” 2021 ($80): There’s lots of muscle in this Clare Valley Cab, but it comes off as lean muscle that’s balanced and food-friendly thanks to fresh acidity (almost certainly enhanced prior to fermentation, but that’s very common – if not so commonly successful). Black fruit tones are overwhelmingly prominent, with black currants and blackberries being the first suggestions, with moderate oak not adding more wood tannins to the grape tannins than the sweetness of the fruit can manage. Bottled under a screw cap, this will repay cellaring for a full decade at least if you can manage that, but it could be enjoyed now with quite robust foods or hard cheeses. Michael Franz 95
ZD Wines (Carneros, California) Pinot Noir 2023 ($60): As good as the 2021 wines from California have been, there’s talk in the winemaking community that 2023 may be even better. This early indicator seems to bear out the chatter, with rich cherry and berry fruit, a dry style that’s not at all drying, well folded oak spice, and a lingering finish that’s already well integrated while still showing age-worthy structure. This is a winner! Rich Cook 95
Campo Viejo (La Rioja, Spain) Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2016 ($25): 2016 was a heralded vintage in Rioja, and rightly so, judging by this fine example. Bright, rich, red and black fruit notes ride a carpet of cool vintage acidity that gives all the fruit and spice components real lift and length. I find I want to keep returning to this, and that’s always a good sign. This is a terrific value worth seeking out. Contains 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. Rich Cook 94
Carol Shelton (Contra Costa County, California) Planchon Vineyard Barbera “Barbera d’Oakley” 2023 ($30): Many people think of Carol Shelton as a Zinfandel hero, but she’s pretty darn good with everything she puts her hand to. She’s got a specific source for this wine that fits her liking, and it fits mine as well, with true to type acidic character and body that makes it a real friend to food. The cherry and blueberry character gets a dash of pepper that adds depth, and the trio sticks together through a long finish. As always, nicely executed. Rich Cook 94
Dutcher Crossing (Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California) Petite Sirah “Proprietor’s Reserve” 2019 ($39): You may have heard that it takes a lot of beer to make good wine (that’s what winemakers say, anyway). Well, I happened to meet winemaker Nick Briggs at Russian River Brewing on a brewery tour, which led to a site visit and tasting some good stuff that he makes (reviews coming to WRO soon), so it was no surprise to see this wine excel when I had a chance to taste it later. This Petite Sirah really shows off its Dry Creek pedigree, with warming pepper tempering the black and blue fruit and subtle earth tones adding depth. Petite Sirah may not be the first thing you think of when seeking a red wine, but you should put this one on your list. Rich Cook 94
Fallbrook Winery (South Coast, California) Petit Verdot “33º North, Winemaker’s Vineyard Collection #17” 2021 ($75): Wow! Winemaker Euan Parker pushes the envelope of what’s possible in a dry red wine here, but if I didn’t give you the particulars, you’d just think that you’ve got a very tasty glass in your hand. A reading of the label might lead you to believe that something sweet and hot is coming your way, but the wine manages both balance and Petite Verdot character pretty seamlessly, and a little pop of heat in the finish serves to lengthen things pleasantly. Cheese plate, please. Rich Cook 94
Florence Vineyard (Rockpile AVA, Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “Reserve” 2022 ($30): I like the angle here – this is a generous Zinfandel that shows the restrained side of what’s possible from Rockpile. Not at all overripe or bombastic, it is very food friendly thanks to lively acidity that keeps the brambly flavors taut and tangy, with a moderate dose of black pepper that sets the fruit off nicely. This is quite well integrated already, but plenty of structure bodes well for a long life. Rich Cook 94
J. Lohr (Adelaida District – Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Red Wine “Gesture GSM, Limited Release” 2023 ($40): I like to call this the “secret” J. Lohr label, because those “in the know” about J. Lohr are aware that they make a lot of small batch wines that are generally only available at the winery. This GSM is a beauty, with mixed berry fruit, bright fall spice, and notes of earth and herb that are already well knit together—and will continue to develop over the next 5 years. Bravo! Contains 84% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 1% Mourvèdre. Rich Cook 94
Maxville Winery (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon “The High Valley” 2022 ($45): An impressive wine on its own terms, this is especially impressive as a very high-quality Napa Cab for $45. That’s not pocket change, I grant, but it is well below the going rate for this variety from Napa. The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Sirah, 1.5% Petit Verdot, and 1.5% Merlot, and though the flavor impact may be juked up a bit by the Petite Sirah component, the flavor profile isn’t off from the Cabernet standard at all. Blackberries and black currants are the fruits it first brings to mind, with well-integrated oak and reasonably rounded tannins. A deal, relatively speaking. Michael Franz 94
Miramonte (Temecula Valley, Riverside County, California) Red Wine “Opulente” 2020 ($46): Miramonte is carving out a nice Iberian niche in Temecula Valley with wines like this one, a Portuguese-styled blend. It features dark berry fruit accented with notes of tar and pepper and moderate oak toast that lends a little roasted coffee accent. It’s built for beef or petiscos (the Portuguese equivalent of Spanish tapas), and it’s got the stuffing to stand up to fattier meat cuts. Delicious! Contains 52% Alicante Bouschet, 31% Tempranillo and 17% Touriga Nacional. Rich Cook 94
Miramonte (Temecula Valley, Riverside County, California) Tempranillo 2020 ($47): It’s nice to find a later released wine that was wisely held and is showing beautifully now. Like its Rioja counterparts from Spain, a wine structured like this takes some bottle aging to unwind its charms, and being able to purchase it with a good portion of the aging done for you is a bonus. That said, this is just entering its drinking window, and it will continue to improve as the oak folds further into the rich fruit. Good things happening at Miramonte. Contains 8% Graciano. Rich Cook 94
Miramonte (California) Red Wine “Winery Member’s Reserve” 2019 ($55): Blended from 68% Petit Sirah and 32% Mourvèdre, this was evidently not made to be shy, nor did it turn out to be. However, I isn’t the blunderbuss one might expect, and is really medium-plus in body, with relatively rounded tannins that don’t leave a rough impression in the aftertaste. There’s just a bit of earthiness that may be traceable to the Mourvèdre component, but it is very pleasant rather than “dirty.” Damp earth and leather might suit these mild accents as descriptors, with the core fruit flavors recalling dark fruits like blackberries and dark cherries. Overall, it manages to show a bit of wildness while staying civilized, and would be a great partner for a winter dish based on braised lamb. Michael Franz 94
Monserate (South Coast, California) Sagrantino “Estate Grown” 2022 ($59): Winemaker Justin Mund shows us a vineyard that’s coming into its own with this Sagrantino. The next vintage of this will carry the newly minted San Luis Rey AVA marque, placing it in Fallbrook at the north end of San Diego County. Part of the AVA’s distinct character is its cool nights that keep acidity high, and that’s just what Sagrantino needs to keep from flying apart in its boldness. It’s quite reminiscent of fine examples from Montefalco in Umbria, and I’m excited to see what this does in the future. Rich Cook 94
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards (Umpqua Valley, Oregon) Estate “Estate Selection” 2023 ($39): Showing excellent intensity without being overbearing in any of the usual ways (i.e., over-ripe, over-oaked, over-extracted), this is a standout Syrah. Dark berry fruit notes lead the way both aromatically and on the palate, with medium-plus body and plenty of tannin for structure—but certainly not more than the rich fruit can counterbalance. Enjoyable now, but set for nearly a decade of positive development. Michael Franz 94
Robert Renzoni (Temecula Valley, Riverside County, California) Red Wine “Concerto” 2022 ($34): This Zinfandel-forward blend comes off quite elegantly without completely losing the charm of Zin’s rustic side. Brambly fruit and fall spice notes intermingle nicely in both aromatic and flavor profiles, and the oak choice makes for a lingering finish with a spicy push. The acidity will keep you coming back for more when paired with gourmet burgers or grilled steaks. Contains 73% Zinfandel, 19% Syrah and 8% Merlot. 94
Wakefield (McLaren Vale) Shiraz “Masterstroke” Shiraz 2022 ($50) McLaren Vale is legendary within Australia for making massive wines, and yet this is actually just medium-bodied and quite fresh with acidity—though it offers a lot of brambly black and red berry fruit. The oak is quite restrained, as is the wine in general terms for one with a proprietary name of “Masterstroke.” This will prove extremely versatile thanks to its moderate weight and probably quite age-worthy on account of its acidity. Michael Franz 94
Robert Renzoni Vineyards (California) Red Wine “Vecchio Frate” 2022 ($47): This is comprised entirely of Lagrein, a high-quality variety found most often in Alto Adige (north-eastern-most Italy). As this Temecula-based winery doesn’t disclose where the fruit was sourced from within California, that remains a rather intriguing mystery, but the wine is straightforwardly delicious. Very dark in color, with blackberry fruit intensity to match, it finishes with the faintest touch of sweetness to soften the overall profile. Clearly this variety can do very well in California, and this provides a fine introduction. Michael Franz 93
St. James Winery (Ozark Highlands AVA, Missouri) Norton “Explorer Collection” 2022 ($19): Norton is a variety native to North America (not a hybrid crossed with a vitis vinifera variety). It is hearty but—on account of that—not for the faint of heart, though it is important in the history of wine in America. It is the official wine grape of Missouri, and though it reached its peak of fame when grown there, it was first made in Virginia. This rendition is far more delicious and much less challenging than most, this moderate depth of color, delicate aromas, very pleasant flavors with fruity and savory notes intermingled, and gentle tannins lending grip in the finish. By comparison to many (or most?) examples that are inky and impenetrable either to the eye or the palate, this is a stylish triumph of moderation. I’d not only drink it—I’d buy it. Michael Franz 93
Rodney Strong Vineyards (Russian River Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2023 ($30): Admirably pure but not lacking for flavor or structure, this is an outstanding Pinot at its price level, and an excellent one at any price. Dark cherry notes predominate, with a bit of spice in the bouquet and a little streak of red fruit in the mid-palate and running through the finish. Michael Franz 93
Barefoot (California) Zinfandel NV ($7): Some years back, this bottling carried the Lodi Appellation, and as often happens when demand outstrips supply, sourcing must come from a wider selection in this tier. That’s not a detriment here, as the wine delivers charming, lip-smacking Zin character with proper pepper pucker adding to the fun. If you’re throwing a BBQ party for a huge group, this is an obvious choice. As always, an amazing achievement for the quantity produced nd the price asked. Rich Cook 92
Campo Viejo (La Rioja, Spain) Rioja Reserva 2018 ($15): This is one of the great value leaders in the world of wine from one of the great value categories in wine, and it’s got broad distribution to be accessible to a wide audience. Bright fruit, sturdy oak influence, brown spice, and a long finish are a big ask in this price range, but this Reserva answers the question with style. Contains 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. Rich Cook 92
JOLO Vineyards (North Carolina) Proprietary Red Wine “Pilot Shadow” 2021 ($62): This is a blend of a native American variety (9% Cynthiana, a.k.a. Norton), a French/American Hybrid (5% Chambourcin) and well-known varieties associated historically with Bordeaux (11% Cabernet Franc, 11% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 45% Petit Verdot). That’s a lot to swallow for starters, but the wine is very interesting and, ahem, easy to swallow. There’s some muscle and depth of flavor that are likely traceable to the components of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also an unusual brightness that may be exuded by the Cynthiana and Chambourcin. The wine also offers a very pleasant intermingling of pure fruit flavors and pleasantly earthy undertones, yet it is not at all “foxy” or weird in its aromatic of flavor presentation, which is the concern that would scare off many consumers who knew of the native and hybrid varieties in the blend. It is pricey, obviously, but highly distinctive and thoroughly delicious. Michael Franz 92
Oregon Territory (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2022 ($20): Macro appellation offerings are often blends of fruit from a wide range of sources, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that the fruit is from the second tier. This bottle is clearly top-flight, with evident Oregon markers like taut cherry fruit, a little citric touch and subtle barrel influence. It’s tough to find Pinot Noir in this price category that really sings, but there’s a lovely melody here. Rich Cook 92
Robert Renzoni (Temecula Valley, Riverside County, California) Red Wine “Concerto” 2022 ($34): This Zinfandel-forward blend comes off quite elegantly without completely losing the charm of Zin’s rustic side. Brambly fruit and fall spice notes intermingle nicely in both aromatic and flavor profiles, and the oak choice makes for a lingering finish with a spicy push. The acidity will keep you coming back for more when paired with gourmet burgers or grilled steaks. Contains 73% Zinfandel, 19% Syrah and 8% Merlot. 94
WHITE:
Dutcher Crossing (Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California) Stuhlmuller Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($45): Chardonnay is available in so many different styles that some find it daunting to even consider beginning to wade in to the fray, whereas others are chomping at the bit to try all of them. Count me in the latter camp, and count me a fan of this rather unique iteration. The classic elements of California fruit are all here, presented in subtle, reined-in fashion, with a perfectly chosen oak toast level to let those subtleties blossom on the palate. A beautiful wine for fish or fowl accompaniment. Beautifully elaborated by Nick Briggs. Rich Cook 95
Navarro Vineyards (Anderson Valley, Mendocino County) Pinot Gris 2023 ($26): I sometimes lose faith in this grape variety (a stable mutation of Pinot Noir) after tasting too many watery renditions of Pinot Grigio, lifelessly sweet examples of Pinot Gris from Alsace, or just plain bland Pinot Gris from Oregon or New Zealand. Then I taste a wine like this—and my faith is restored. It is medium-bodied but finished dry, with vivid fruit flavors recalling poached pears and baked apples that are enlivened with just the right intensity of acidity to freshen the wine while not undercutting its generosity. There’s also the faintest hint of pleasant bitterness in the finish that lends additional complexity. This is the sort of wine that you could either study with profit over an hour, or just sip and enjoy without being “challenged” by it at all. Michael Franz 95
J. Lohr (Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “October Night” 2023 ($25): As usual, this wine is one of the most wildly aromatic wines out there, but there’s a little surprise coming once you calm down from the pleasant pop in the nose. The palate delivers all the brightness you’d expect from the papaya and passion fruit nose, with well-chosen oak accents providing depth and finesse as opposed to bombast and heft. This is the best vintage of this that I’ve tasted, and I think I’ve tasted all of them. Rich Cook 94
Monserate (South Coast, California) Falanghina “Estate Grown, Cellar Select” 2023 ($48): I gotta’ say, I am pretty impressed that there’s a wine like this one growing about 15 miles from my house. This would slide into a tasting of Italian iterations seamlessly, and it might well win the taste-off. A bright floral and juicyfruit nose leads to a lively palate that’s dry, crisp and bright, with lingering citrus and tropical flavors. Winemaker Justin Mund is developing a solid Cal-Ital program here. Rich Cook 94
Rodney Strong (Chalk Hill, Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2022 ($30): The trend toward lively acidity in Chardonnay continues, and I’m certainly a fan of the shift. This is all about brightness and freshness, and the wine should hold for a couple of years in that state before it starts to mellow. This is a tropical treat that will please a wide range of tasters, and a fine solo glass or seafood accompaniment. Rich Cook 93
Whitehaven (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20) Many American consumers would look askance at a Southern Hemisphere white from 2023, but they should know that many Marlborough winemakers believe their wines are better as they approach two years after the fruit is off the vine. It remains absolutely fresh and refreshing, yet the push-pull of ripe fruit and acidity has calmed down at this point, making for a more integrated experience. It shows nice herbal aromas but no pungent grassiness, and there’s no overly tart acidity in the finish. Michael Franz 93
The Crossings (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($14): Roughly as refreshing a wine as you can find anywhere it the world, this is loaded with energetic acidity (nearly electric, frankly) and citrus fruit flavors recalling limes and grapefruits. I admire the fact that the winemaking team elected not to “calm this down” with a bigger dose of residual sugar, but this may be too tart for some tasters—just not me. Perfect for oysters, or for waking up someone who fell asleep during an afternoon by the pool. Michael Franz 92
Brancott Estate (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($11): This wine has been a category leader for decades, and it remains an exemplar for quality-to-price ratio. With highly expressive aromas of cut grass and dried herbs, lean citrus fruit, and very edgy acidity, it is an exciting drink with great refreshment value. How can they make this and get it to our store shelves for eleven bucks? With machinery, for sure, but also with impressive skill. Michael Franz 91
Kim Crawford (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($16): To say that this is a “crowd pleaser” is to belabor the obvious—given the commercial success of this wine. Yet, there’s a reason for its popularity that squares with a high estimation of quality, namely, excellent balance and interplay between zesty citrus fruit notes and notable sweetness. I suppose there are wine snots out there who look down on this style, but they can’t do so while also praising German Riesling Kabinett wines, and they couldn’t pass a polygraph test when denying they’d like to have a financial stake in this. Michael Franz 91
Woodbridge (California) Moscato NV ($7): The various strains of the Muscat family of grapes are all so aromatically alluring that they have charmed tasters in many countries with widely varied growing conditions for millennia—almost regardless of how they are vinified. This is a California take that’s roughly inspired by Moscato d’Asti from Italy’s Piedmont region, with low-ish alcohol of 10% and very light effervescence that provides lift to the moderate sweetness of the wine. Aromas of spring blossoms blend nicely with very ripe fruit notes. Michael Franz 90
FORTIFIED:
Rancho de Philo (Cucamonga Valley, San Bernardino County, California) Triple Cream Sherry NV ($60): This is a totally unique product with the distinction of having been so for a very long time, which wouldn’t mean much if it wasn’t a spectacular product. It’s taken top awards over and over again everywhere it is presented, largely for its impeccable depth, complexity and overall yum factor. Don’t miss it – it’s a taste of California history. Rich Cook 96
Villa Bellezza Winery (Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA, Wisconsin) “Sangue Della Pantera” Fortified Frontenac NV ($42): This clocks in at 18.5% but shows little alcoholic heat. Sweet but not cloying, its flavors bring to mind something like blackberry pie filling, and the relatively faint impression of added spirit comes across more as a love tap than a punch in the finish. Full in body but not heavy or tiring to drink, this is a cleverly crafted beverage that is among the most successful of its type that I can recall tasting. Michael Franz 92
SPARKLING:
King Estate (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Brut Cuvée 2019 ($40): Winemaker Brent Stone and his team at King Estate keep turning out the hits. This fine bottle of bubbles delivers a dry, deep Brut that carries a slight oxidative character that brings out notes of toasted bread that set off the apple and pear fruit profile nicely. A fine mousse gives a rich mouthfeel, and the finish is long with full integration already. I’d recommend near-term drinking. Contains 3% Pinot Noir and 47% Chardonnay. Rich Cook 95
Josh Cellars (Prosecco DOC, Italy) Extra Dry NV ($17): This is a very successful Prosecco from a fresh, non-vintage-dated lot. It shows open floral aromas and juicy fruit flavors that are enlivened by abundantly foamy effervescence. Yes, as an “Extra Dry” rather than “Brut” bottling, it shows sweetness in the finish, but that works well with the floral aromas, and is counterbalanced by zesty acidity. Michael Franz 92
Bolle Drinks Non-Alcoholic Sparkling Rosé Wine NV ($30) I’ve tasted quite a few non-alcoholic wines when seeking acceptable candidates for restaurant consulting clients, and this is one of few in the category that is actually a pleasure to taste—rather than a bail-out option. The abundant effervescence helps it seem less diluted than many examples in the category, and the flavors seem pure and natural if a bit faint, with red pie cherries coming first to mind by analogy. Really quite tasty, and well-tuned to current market conditions. Michael Franz 89