Many wine writers, myself included, believe that climate change has altered the traditional stoney, flinty character of Chablis, making the wines marginally rounder, richer, and perhaps less riveting. Burgundy authority Jasper Morris, MW writes, “These days – and it is a question of climate rather than choices made by the producer – the wines [Chablis] are softer, more fruit forward at least in their youth….” In my estimation, the wines from Chablis are still compelling and remain a bargain, especially compared to other white Burgundies. But consumers looking for minerality and verve should also look to the Chenin Blanc-based white wines from Saumur in the Loire Valley. You read that correctly…I wrote Chenin Blanc.
Many consumers, maybe even most, associate Loire wines made from Chenin Blanc with fruitiness, even sweetness, and for good reason. Vouvray, a jewel of an appellation in the Central Loire and certainly one of the region’s most famous, produces many luxurious off-dry wines. Indeed, Sarah Hwang, whose family owns the iconic Domaine Huet in Vouvray, states emphatically, “Demi-sec is the strength of Vouvray.” Of course, Chenin Blanc makes spectacular dry wines as well, both in Vouvray and very notably in Savennières. But Chenin Blanc planted on the tuffeau (limestone) terroir in Saumur makes dramatically different and unique dry wines. These are minerally driven wines filled with a tension that energizes and awakens the palate.
Just as the Kimmeridgian limestone of Chablis helps to define the character of those wines, so does tuffeau in Saumur. Tuffeau, a kind of limestone, appeared after the retreat of the prehistoric sea which left a vast collection of dead marine animals—fossilized shells are still visible—in a thick layer of calcareous mud. Compacted by pressure over the ages, it gradually formed rock. Although tuffeau, formed about 100 million years ago, is a younger limestone than that found in Chablis (which formed roughly 50 million years earlier), both comprise part of the geologic Parisen Basin. Tuffeau limestone, like its Kimmeridgian older sibling, has qualities that make it an ideal mother rock for vines. Its porosity allows roots to penetrate deeply and also provides good drainage. Growers in Saumur attribute the high acidity of the wines, both in the sweet and dry wines, to the complex mineral content of tuffeau.
Despite the geologic similarity to Chablis, Chenin Blanc rather than Chardonnay remains the mainstay grape of Saumur Blanc. Arnaud Lambert, a top grower, explains that the soil atop the limestone in Saumur is sandier with less clay compared to Chablis. This soil composition typically results is a lighter wine, which suits wines made from Chenin Blanc just fine. Chardonnay-based wines in that soil could be hollow. An additional explanation is that historically sweet wines were prized because sugar was rare. Chenin Blanc became the perfect grape in the region because of its ability to become affected by botrytis and make lush, sweet wines. Dry still wines from Saumur are a relatively recent phenomenon.
Tuffeau can boost ripening, important in the past, when the aim was for sweet wine. It absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back to the grapes during the night, helping ensure ripeness in this northern climate.
Antoine Cristal took advantage of the heat storing capacity of tuffeau. In1894, Cristal created what has turned out to be a truly unique vineyard (pictured above): Clos d’Entre les Murs, a part of the Château de Parnay winemaking estate and now recognized as a French Historic Monument. He divided the 0.56-ha clos into three-row bays by building 11 parallel, east-west running limestone walls, 60 centimeters thick and 2 meters high. He planted the roots on the cool south side of the walls, cut a hole about 50-cm from the bottom and threaded the vine so that it grew against the warm north side of the wall. This system allowed the base of the vine to be easily accessible for plowing while the vine itself could capture the sun’s heat. The highly unusual and innovative configuration worked. The grapes from these vines ripened about three weeks earlier compared to ones planted without the walls.
At present the heat pump-like character of tuffeau is more an impediment than an asset. So, to combat climate change today, growers are employing several strategies such as retaining a larger leaf canopy to shade the grapes, finding north-facing sites, and increasing crop loads to slow ripening,
The town of Saumur, a small and charming medieval hamlet with an imposing château overlooking the Loire, sits midway between Angers and Tours. The vineyards devoted to making white still wines lie on the south side of the river and cover about 380 hectares. Although there are no officially designated sub-zones, everyone with whom I’ve spoken raves about the hill of Brézé as the premier site within the appellation. Lambert notes that a study carried out in 2018 highlighted five sectors in addition to Brézé: Berrie, Brossay, La Côte, Courchamps, and Le Puy Notre Dame. Formal identification of zones within the appellation — and parcellation within those zones — should allow growers to take full advantage of the diversity of the terroir in Saumur. Some producers such as Domaine Arnaud Lambert, Domaine Guiberteau, and Domaine de Roche Ville (to name just three) are already doing so with bottlings from distinctly different locales.
Despite variations in winemaking styles and diversity of soil atop the tuffeau, the still white wines of Saumur have common characteristics. These refreshing, light to mid-weight, notably aromatic whites are focused on their mineral character. The fruity notes that appear are typically more citrusy rather than tropical — as they are in many other Chenin Blanc-based wines from the Loire. These energetic wines often display a delightful hint of bitterness or spice in their finish that effectively counterbalances their fruity aspect. The wines can be shy initially, needing time in the glass to reveal their charms. So, despite being highly refreshing, I’d advise you to resist the temptation to gulp them. In my experience, the top examples evolve beautifully and gain even more complexity with bottle age.
More than one producer noted an absence of concern about employing malolactic fermentation to round the edges of the wines because of the countervailing effect of high natural acidity of Chenin grown on tuffeau. Others seek out sites with clay atop the limestone which seems to moderate the wines’ edginess, making them more enjoyable to drink earlier. Some growers ferment and/or age a cuvée in oak, while others use amphorae, concrete eggs, or steel tanks. As in Chablis, exposure to oak can result in a welcome enhancement to complexity or have the negative effect of blunting the expression of terroir, so growers need to be vigilant. Ironically for an area that is environmentally conscious and has embraced organic viticulture enthusiastically, some growers are using heavy bottles as if to announce the “importance” of their wines. Truly important wines always speak for themselves, so hopefully this practice will diminish in the future.
Saumur Blanc, producers who, in my experience, rarely disappoint include Château de Parnay, Château Yvonne, Domaine Laurent Arnaud, Domaine Collier, Domaine Filliatreau (Château Fouquet), Domaine Guiberteau, Domaine de la Guilloterie, Domaine de Nerleux, Domaine La Perruches, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Domaine de Roche Ville, Domaine Saint Landor, and Domaine du Vieux-Bourg. No doubt there are others. Saumur is a rapidly changing landscape with lots of new, young, and energetic producers popping up.
The best Saumur wines have a precision and purity that comes from Chenin Blanc planted on its unique limestone. Hopefully, the appellation will gain more recognition as regulators officially identify distinctive sub-zones within Saumur, and hopefully ever more growers will pinpoint and rely upon the exceptional and diverse terroir they have at their feet. The late Charles M. Schwab, a famous American steel magnate, long ago gave good general advice that is applicable today to Saumur growers: “The best place to succeed is where you are with what you have.” And who knows, before too long, Saumur may acquire the same cachet as Chablis.
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Sincere thanks to Nathalie Spielman, PhD, NEOMA Business School in Reims, who alerted me to Schwab’s advice.
E-mail me your thoughts about Loire wines in general or Saumur particular, at Michael.Apstein1@gmail.com and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein
October 29, 2025