Before June, I had never been to Sicily, though I frequently visited Italy growing up, thanks to my paternal heritage. With my family far up in the north of the country, discovering vineyards in Franciacorta and Alto Adige was a more realistic weekend outing. Now, firmly into the last quarter of the year, I’m surprised to say I’ve been to Sicily twice. While the size and diversity of the island warrant far more time than I’ve managed to dedicate to it so far, my deep (albeit quick) dive offered an overview that highlights the dynamic nature of the region’s wine industry.
Vines have been growing in Sicily for several millennia, due to the numerous influences that have shaped its heritage. With the island’s strategic position in the Mediterranean, the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans each left their traces on the viticultural landscape. With its hilly terrain, diverse geology, and endless hours of sunshine, Sicily is made for growing
grapes.
Yet for all its ancient roots, Sicily’s wine story continues to evolve. From the volcanic vineyards of Etna to the diversity of Sicilia DOC, the island is redefining what it means to honor tradition while embracing change.
Etna and the Question of Identity
My first trip delved into the fascinating terroir of Etna, an exciting exploration considering my affinity for volcanic wines. Although I was clearly in Sicily, the conversation constantly revolved around the Etna identity and how the vineyards, winemaking, and wines stood out from the rest of the island. That said, Etna wines only account for a small fraction of the total wine produced in Sicily, which is one of the top regions in Italy in terms of vineyard growing area.
The best Etna winemakers manage to harness the volcanic features that characterize their vineyards, from the altitude to the mineral-rich soils. These nuances are classified through Etna’s 142 contrade, subdivisions highlighting distinctions in soil, lava flow, altitude, and exposition. However, as more people are drawn to its iconic nature and purchase land on the volcano’s foothills, the essence of the region is becoming less defined, according to Angelo Grazia, winemaker at Tornatore Wine, on the northern slopes of the volcano.
As newcomers arrive eager to experiment, Grazia worries that the distinction between wines “of” Etna and wines “on” Etna becomes more important to delineate. The former speaks to the nuances of the terroir, whereas the latter might ignore these while benefiting from the name on the label. Though there’s room to experiment with novel grape varieties, vinification methods, and wine styles, Grazia cautions that staying true to the land is important to preserving the Etna terroir, a clash sometimes felt between new and existing Etna vineyard owners.
Indeed, to curb this influx, the Etna Consorzio initially put a pause on registering new vineyards under the Etna DOC appellation between 2021 and 2024, to ensure the quality and biodiversity of the region are respected. This measure was extended until 2027, with a small allowance for new plantings within designated limits. By carefully containing the growth of the region, the hope is that consumers can continue to guarantee the quality of the wines coming out of Etna.
Sicilia DOC: A Unifying Identity
As Etna grapples with maintaining its unique character while evolving along with the market and viticultural trends, the rest of the island sits under a larger umbrella: Sicilia DOC. Established in 2011 and supplemented by a Consortium for the Protection of Sicilia DOC wines the following year, this appellation covers the entire island (coverage previously only achieved by the Sicilia IGT appellation). Another 22 DOCs and a DOCG characterize select areas, but the overarching Sicilia DOC was the scope of my second trip to the island, and proved to be rich with diversity. Whereas a widespread appellation might be lackluster in some parts of the wine world, in Sicily, it’s another story.
Sicilia DOC encompasses around 500 wineries and several thousand wine growers, yet it still manages to capture the nuances of the island while promoting quality. The Consortium is an association of wineries of all sizes with the united goal of assuring that the products with its label are indeed made in the delineated region, according to agreed-upon methods and quality standards. Additionally, the Consortium promotes Sicily’s indigenous grapes and the unique history and developments that have led to its current viticultural landscape, helping to create an identity for the wine body.
Although the Sicilian wine industry has come a long way since the 1960s and 1970s, when it produced high volumes of low-quality wine, the island’s identity is still slowly being carved out. With a dedicated Consortium and wine growers keen to spread the word, all of Sicily — not just the cult-level Etna region — is worthy of attention. Indeed, market trends confirm this evolving interest, as Sicilian wine is distributed and sold ever more widely internationally.
Sustainability and the Sicilian Climate
The Mediterranean climate is a huge asset to the island’s viticulture, as evidenced by the fact that one-third of vineyards are farmed organically. It tops all other Italian wine regions for organic vineyard area, demonstrating a focus on sustainability. Many wineries (both small and large) prioritize sustainable measures to maintain the island’s biodiversity and ecological bounty, while producing wines that remain true to the terroir. This also extends to the local economy with practices promoting employment and the health of workers with a view to the overall benefit of communities.
Among the many producers I visited with Wines of Sicily, the majority are proud to be able to farm without harmful chemicals, showcasing the land in its natural glory. Take Salvatore Tamburello, for example, a winemaker in Poggioreale, who is adamant about showcasing the Sicilian terroir. If a harvest isn’t up to standards, he simply sells the grapes rather than making adjustments to bottle them as Sicilia DOC.
Research and Reviving Indigenous Varieties
With several thousand growers and hundreds of wineries under the Wines of Sicily umbrella, one might wonder whether a sense of local identity is lacking. On the contrary, the joint goal of expressing the nuances of the Sicilian terroir and the 70+ grape varieties native to the island is a uniting factor that transcends large and small wineries. Though international varieties were once heavily planted due to their popularity, the current viticultural philosophy favors the local grapes. The Consortium even has specific research projects aimed at better understanding some of the varieties and seeking ways to optimize their growth and expression.
The V.I.S.T.A Lucido Project is a fine example, aimed at increasing the reach of Lucido and other indigenous varieties. Haven’t heard of it? It’s actually the same as Catarratto, renamed with a simpler name to appeal to international consumers. The project comprises numerous endeavors, including managing climate change, improving biodiversity, and boosting sustainability, among other measures. Similarly, Project Bi.Vi.Si. is aimed at expanding the island’s biodiversity, with an emphasis on the existing terroir.
Grapes Defining Sicilia DOC
Meanwhile, Grillo was once considered an uninteresting white grape, but as quality controls and a deeper understanding of the variety have been gained, it is now used in excellent wines that express a range of characteristics. From light, crisp, and citrusy styles to more complex aromatics and a fuller body, Grillo (a cross between Catarratto and Zibbibo) allows plenty of room for experimentation among winemakers. With the current market trends of increasing white wine sales, this versatile offering is perfect to meet consumer demands.
Other white varieties once reserved for Marsala production are now being used to make quality table wines, like Catarratto and Inzolia. Highlighting these varieties is part of the movement toward prioritizing local grapes and their expression of the Sicilian terroir.
Nero d’Avola is the reigning red in the region (responsible for nearly half of the bottlings), and all of the Sicilian DOC producers I visited proudly presented their versions at their wineries. Some leaned on the variety’s bold fruit and spice aromas, fermenting and maturing it in stainless steel to let the grape’s typicity and freshness dominate. Others introduced some oak influence, giving it extra weight and complexity. Nero d’Avola rosé and sparkling wine are also being produced, demonstrating the innovation at play.
Frappato offers a floral palate and lively freshness that are pleasantly displayed with a slight chill. This lighter red wine balances vibrant fruit aromas with an easy-to-drink nature, making it a desirable option with and without food. On the other hand, Perricone boasts more of an edge, with an earthy, mineral profile featuring dark fruits and herbs.
Engaging a New Generation of Wine Lovers
Aside from exploring the nuances of the island’s indigenous grapes, winemakers face the challenge of ensuring the wine sells. Although Sicilian wine is well-positioned for growth in local and international markets, the culture of wine remains in a slightly precarious position.
Over at Giovinco Wines, a family-run winery re-established in 2021, appealing to younger consumers is part of the message. With a modern philosophy at the heart of the business, the focus is on wine as a convivial experience — though the wines are no less expressive and balanced. By pairing the wines with cultural events held at the winery, like DJ sets and theater showings in the vineyard, Giovinco is rethinking the context in which wine is shared and enjoyed.
At Cantine De Gregorio, winemaking is a way of life for the family at the heart of the business. Though the vineyard yields could go beyond the current 200,000 bottles a year, they prefer to cap the production to keep the production as familial and natural as possible.
Sicily is often referred to as the most conquered place in the world, and this identity has left its residents with an openness to change. This flexibility and ability to adapt in the face of novelty are characteristics that are sure to benefit Sicilian winemakers in the upcoming years. As producers look to the future and the evolving landscape of the industry, that resilience will be the foundation on which Sicily’s global wine identity continues to grow.