Wine drinkers I speak to believe that “value” and “Bordeaux” don’t belong in the same sentence. There’s no question that the prices fetched today by the 60 Cru Classé wines are not bargains, except perhaps to the one-percenters. However, bargains do exist in Bordeaux, and they are easy to find. Just look at the prices listed in the tasting notes below, especially those for wines pushing 10 years of age. Additionally, look for the symbol of the Cru Bourgeois, which is affixed to every bottle from every member châteaux in this category.
The Cru Bourgeois classification, though not as famous or revered as the Médoc Classification of 1855, is far more important and useful for everyday consumers.
The Médoc Classification was promulgated in 1855 to identify to the world France’s best wines in anticipation of crowds, which turned out to exceed 5 million, attending the 1855 Exposition Universelle, a kind of nascent World’s Fair. The 5-tiered ranking, from first to fifth growth as they are known, was determined solely by the price of the wines in the market. There were no tastings, no critics scoring the wines, nor any objective assessment except selling price. That famous classification was then etched in stone, with only one minor change, the elevation of Château Mouton Rothschild from a 2nd to 1st growth in 1973. No châteaux have been added. None have been subtracted. Curiously, châteaux are allowed to expand without losing their ranking. Even as châteaux acquire vineyards outside of their original boundaries and even if those plots are less well situated—those vineyards still qualify for the château’s original ranking determined in 1855.
Compare that to the Cru Bourgeois classification which undergoes revision every five years, with properties gaining or losing this important recognition based on the assessment of a panel of experts, including critics and independent members of the trade. The evaluation is thorough and can be severe, which is why it is so useful to consumers. And, indeed, the number of châteaux included in the most recent revision, held in 2025, dropped from 250 to 170!
Inclusion in the Cru Bourgeois classification has not always been so selective. The classification has evolved over the decades to be far more meaningful as producers have raised the bar for inclusion. First drawn up informally in 1932 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture to highlight wines excluded from the 1855 Médoc Classification, it included 444 châteaux. Seventy years later in 2003 (the French wine bureaucracy is not famous for speed), the French wine authorities officially codified the classification, recognizing 247 châteaux, representing roughly half of the properties that were eligible. Some of the excluded châteaux promptly sued, arguing that the process was biased: members of the selection committee included châteaux owners whose properties were under consideration for inclusion. In 2007, a court agreed, voided the classification and writing, “It is not possible to be both judge and judged.”
Châteaux owners, realizing that a classification system was still useful and important, revised the selection process over the ensuing decade, strengthening it by eliminating potential conflicts of interest, making inclusion criteria more stringent and, importantly, subjecting it to revision every five years.
Currently, any property in the Médoc’s eight appellations (Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Médoc, and Haut-Médoc), can apply to the Syndicat de l’Alliance des Crus Bourgeois (the governing body) to be included in the classification.
It is a demanding application, so the process itself likely winnows the field, another benefit to consumers. A property must submit the five most recent vintages of its wine to be analyzed and judged by blind tastings by an independent panel of experts. In addition to the quality of the wines, the châteaux must also attain environmental certification. Starting with the 2020 classification, producers stratified the classification by adding two additional, higher levels, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, with even more stringent requirements.
Recently, Pamela Wittman, who represents the Cru Bourgeois in the U.S.A., organized a unique tasting in New York City of Cru Bourgeois wines currently available at the retail level. A quick perusal of wine-searcher.com will show their current availability. Although the specific wines reviewed below will not be available in all retail markets, the point I’m makeing is that similar ones carrying the Cru Bourgeois logo will likely be obtainable. In light of the rigorous selection process required to achieve Cru Bourgeois status, they are well worth trying—and will likely have friendly prices.
Speaking of the logo. Consumers might have difficulty finding it because it is often relegated to the capsule atop the bottle, easily escaping the even vigilant eyes. It is surprising to me that the Syndicat de l’Alliance des Crus Bourgeois has taken such great strides in ensuring quality of the wines—but then falls short in alerting consumers to the member châteaux. They have a great message and a set of high-value wines, so they should be sure people “get it.” Perhaps they could follow other appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and emblazon their members’ bottles with “Cru Bourgeois” so consumers can readily recognize this fine compendium of wines.
A Half-Dozen Recommendations
At nearly a decade of age, the sturdy and mature 2016 Château Ramafort (AOC Médoc) delivers a seamless combination of black fruit and savory, olive-like nuances. A touch of enticing bitterness in the finish would make this wine an ideal foil for beef this fall and winter (92 points, $25).
It’s amazing to me that the marvelous bargain-priced and ready-to-drink 2016 Château Peyrabon (AOC Haut-Médoc) is still widely available. This lovely, mid-weight (13% stated alcohol) Bordeaux displays impeccably balanced dark fruit accented by a haunting mineral-like quality, all sitting atop a suave texture. This finesse-filled beauty still smells good even when the glass has been drained. With the new 2025 classification, Château Peyrabon was promoted to the Cru Bourgeois Supérieur category, so I am looking forward to trying their current release (94, $23).
Château Castera (AOC Médoc) ascended to even higher status, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, with the 2025 classification. As the stellar 2016 shows, their talents were evident almost a decade earlier. Silky yet structured, the slightly more muscular 2016 shows the beauty of mature Bordeaux. As with Château Peyrabon, smelling the empty glass is a delight. It’s another remarkable value (94, $23).
Château du Taillan (AOC Haut-Médoc), always one of my favorites, received Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel status in 2025. The 2018 shows that they’ve been making exceptional wines for years. This expressively aromatic, mid-weight beauty combines the freshness of youth with the complexity of bottle age. Fine tannins impart structure without being intrusive. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish makes it ideal for drinking now with grilled lamb chops (93, $25).
Another overachiever, Château Patache d’Aux (AOC Médoc) gained Cru Bourgeois Supérieur status, moving up from Cru Bourgeois, with the 2025 classification. The youthful 2018 delivers great aromatics followed by a dark, pleasantly tarry mineral accent. I’d open and decant this for a few hours before serving or, alternatively, keep it in the cellar for another couple of years (92, $39).
Also receiving Cru Bourgeois Supérieur status with the 2025 classification, the forward and mid-weight 2019 Château Noaillac (AOC Médoc) delivers a harmonious mixture of red and black fruit notes and is surprisingly ready to drink now (92, $16).
In addition to their attractive prices, these Cru Bourgeois wines show their appeal by requiring less time in bottle to reveal their charms than their more prestigious and expensive Cru Classé cousins—which typically require at least a decade to begin showing their full character. Although the word “Bourgeois” arose in French history and language prior to the Revolution as an adjective to denote things that were “middle class” or less-than-noble, Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux wines offer a taste of nobility at consumer-friendly prices. No torches or pitchforks required.
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Email me your thoughts about Bordeaux in general or the Cru Bourgeois in particular at Michael.Apstein1@gmail.com and follow me on Instagram @MichaelApstein
November 26, 2025