Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2019

 This producer’s entry-level bottling of Albariño, “Mar de Viñas,” is so good that it prompts the question:  How could this fruit have failed to make the cut for the top wine of the house?  If you taste “Mar de Viñas,” you’ll understand immediately why that’s a compelling question, and if you taste this right afterward, you’ll get a compelling answer.  Broader, richer, deeper and even more persistent, but with excellent focus despite its relative opulence, this is flat-out great Albariño.  It displays subtle but expressive aromas that become ever more detailed as the wine warms in the glass, and the palate performance is every bit as impressive, with perfectly ripened fruit and excellent acidity and minerality that’s impeccably interlaced with the fruit.  A completely convincing rendition of Albariño, which is arguably the world’s best and most versatile vinous partner for seafood.