Adegas Gran Vinum, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarińo “Nessa” 2024 ($19, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero)

This 2024 vintage of Nessa Albariño has just hit our shores, but it is so good that you should keep it in mind and snatch the first bottle you find. It is very refreshing and energetic—as one would expect from a recent arrival—yet there is also very satisfying physical density and depth of flavor in this vintage. For the moment, the fruit aromas and flavors are predominant, with white peaches coming first to mind as a descriptor, but one might also liken the flavors to ripe Golden apples or even find a faint tropical note. These are analogies—like all descriptors—so preoccupation with them is beside the point—with is the superb purity of flavor in this wine and its excellent balancing acidity.
93 Michael Franz