Alain Robert, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Troglodyte” Brut NV ($23)

Vouvray, the famous appellation in the Loire, makes lovely sparkling wines from Chenin Blanc in addition to their still wines. Alain Robert’s refreshing one combines a delicate and restrained fruitiness — Chenin Blanc speaking — with a firm minerality that comes from the terroir. It’s a hard combination to get right, but Robert’s Troglodyte Brut has impeccable balance that makes this sparkler sing. A hint of bitterness in the finish is entrancing and reminds you that this beauty would work well at the dinner table.
93 Michael Apstein