Amirault, Crémant de Loire (France) Brut NV ($45, Vineyard Brands)

This is the serious side of Crémant de Loire, showing uncommon depth and weight. There’s a little Cabernet Franc in the mix, and it really helps to layer up both the aroma and flavor profiles, and long lees aging doesn’t hurt either. It’s quite austere in the most pleasant of ways, seemingly targeted for use as an aperitif. That’s how I would deploy this, adding some mild appetizers.
92 Rich Cook