Vinho Verde, Portugal’s largest appellation, lies in that country’s northwest corner, bordering Spain. It’s known for racy high-acid wines. Some, sadly, provide little more than acidity. Enter Anselmo Mendes. His Muros Antigos delivers the mouth-cleansing zippy edge, but in addition there’s a lovely floral quality and an engaging lime-like quality. Precise and clean, it a superb example of what the region can produce — and a bargain to boot. Stock up. Spring will be here before you know it. Once you open a bottle, you’ll realize that spring has arrived.
Anselmo Mendes, Monção e Melgaço (Vinho Verde, Portugal) Alvarinho 2019
By Michael Apstein
