Richness of flavor or soundness of structure? Great wines have both, but many winemakers struggle to attain even one. This Brunello cannot be faulted for lacking the latter – assertive while maintaining an elegance and lightless – but it struggles to get that richness we expect in a Brunello. Yes, the Sangiovese signature tastes are there, but they give only a passing appearance. All that said, for structuralists, this will be a very satisfying wine, well worth the price.
Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
By Roger Morris