Argyle Winery, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Spirit House” 2022 ($60)

From the high end of the Argyle line and carrying the haunted house moniker, this is the taut, tart style that winemaker Nate Klostermann (who recently left Argyle) has fully mastered. He shows great respect for the fruit here, with minimal handling and an light touch with the oak, after a picking date that was early enough to keep acidity bright while still letting the pineapple, pear and soft tropical notes come through. I love a Chardonnay like this as a solo glass, but you can deploy this with just about any seafood and be well satisfied. Get some to drink and some to age.
95 Rich Cook