Montefalco Sagrantino, similar to Barolo and Taurasi, can be an impenetrable wine when young because of substantial tannins. The tannins in this massive 2009 from Arnaldo-Caprai, perhaps the leading producer in the DOCG, are still very evident, even at six years of age, but they are not aggressive or astringent. The wine conveys an engaging bitter cherry and tarry quality, especially in its extended finish. This Montefalco Sagrantino is wonderfully dense and mineraly. It opens dramatically after an hour, so if you’re planning to serve it now, open and decant it well in advance. Otherwise, commit it to the cellar for another decade.
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria, Italy) 2009
By Michael Apstein