Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Village – Gumiel de Mercado 2023 ($22, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero)

Arrocal has been among my handful of favorite producers in Ribera del Duero for well over a decade, and as responsibility for the family winery has passed to a new generation (namely, Rodrigo and Asier Calvo), the wines and packaging are benefitting from an infusion of innovative, youthful energy. This modestly priced release from estate owned and tended vineyards in the “home village” of Gumiel de Mercado comes quite close in quality to the pricier “Los Colmenares” bottling from 2023. That observation should not be taken as a knock on the 2023 Los Colmenares, but rather as an indication that nothing leaves the cellar of this bodega for sale that isn’t top-notch in quality. This is emphatically top-notch in every respect except costliness. It hasn’t yet developed tertiary aromas or flavors at this early stage in its evolution, yet it already shows impressive complexity, with both red and black fruit tones, a whiff of spices and oak toast, and some emerging savory undertones. No overtly oaky tones are evident despite the spicy, toasty accents, which are not assertive be still contribute to the wine’s level of detail. The tannins are likewise evident — as they should be — yet they offer a gentle, gripping tug in the wine’s aftertaste but without any bitterness or astringency. The blend is 85% Tinto Fino (the local name for Tempranillo), 10% Garnacha, and 5% Albillo Mayor, and the end result is a wine that is immediately enjoyable with even the lightest appetizers, but one that can also stand up to more robust fare and has at least five years of positive development ahead of it. This is an eye-popping achievement in this price category.
93 Michael Franz