Bernard Defaix, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2022 ($92, Old World Import)

Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines, and Grand Cru Chablis is the ultimate expression of the Chablisienne vineyards. Drawn from the best sites on the steep slopes above the village, Grand Cru Chablis combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays. Bernard Defaix’s excellent 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir reflects the elemental style of the site. The nose shows crisp apple, peach and lemon fruits interwoven with floral, nut, herb, honey, and spice nuances. On the palate, the ripeness of the 2022 harvest shows with the apple and citrus flavors interwoven with peach and tropical fruit nuances. These layers of fruit are enhanced by honey, nut, and herb elements. The finish is pure and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident. This a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis, but it will reward those who choose to cellar it for 5 to 10 years and let it evolve.
93 Wayne Belding