It should come as no surprise that a collaboration, now about two decades old, between two of the greatest names in wine should produce a fabulous wine. Bodegas Caro is a joint effort of Domaines Barons de (Lafite) Rothschild and Nicolas Catena, one of Argentina’s leading wine producers. Comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (83%) and Malbec, CARO is the winery’s flagship. As a curiosity, Malbec, Argentina’s signature red grape, had been planted at Lafite in the past, but did not thrive and was replaced with Merlot, according to Cyril Ray’s, Lafite: The Story of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild [Christie’s Wine Publications]. It’s a stunning wine, powerful yet graceful. The initial impact is plummy fruit-driven flavors, perhaps the Malbec speaking. Fortunately, within 30 minutes, the palate is flooded as all the notes pitch in making a glorious fruity/savory mix, which continues to change and evolve as it sits in the glass. A delightfully bitter finish reminds you this is not a fruit-bomb, but serious stuff. Its modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol is also a powerful argument that you don’t need super ripe grapes to produced grand wine. Beautifully textured — after all, Lafite is involved — making it easy to enjoy now. However, the way it blossomed in the glass suggests to me that you will be amply rewarded by cellaring for a few years.
Bodegas Caro, Mendoza (Argentina) 2016
By Michael Apstein