Bodegas Hispano + Suizas, Utiel-Requena (Valencia, Spain) Red Blend “Quod Superius” 2019 ($116)

This is a very appealing and versatile blend of Bobal, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Although it is packaged in a big, heavy bottle with a not-too-shy name, all four of the constituent varieties tend toward medium-bodied in the wines they produce (Aussie Shiraz being an outlier). The Utiel-Requena D.O. outside of Valencia gets plenty of sun, of course, but it is also up in elevation from the Mediterranean and also derives some cooling marine influence as well as diurnal temperature swings that help keep reds from getting too ripe or muddy in flavor. This premium wine was—wisely—not loaded up with oak that the fruit can’t handle, and the finished product is soft and inviting in multiple respects: The aromas aren’t overly assertive, yet the bouquet is just that—an expressive collection of different aromas rather than the “stem” of a single “flower.” There’s a touch of cocoa powder, vanilla and oak spice but not too much wood, followed by fruit scents that are at least as much red as black in tone. The flavors show suggestions of brown baking spices and fruit that is as much savory as it is punchy and primary, with the nearly six years since vinification having clearly added complexity while also softening the tannins and integrating them with the wine’s acidity and wood. This shows no sign whatsoever of cracking up, and will likely still develop in a positive direction, yet it is fully ready to enjoy now. It would pair well with a grilled steak, but doesn’t need one, and isn’t too assertive to work nicely with pork or veal dishes, or even duck confit.
94 Michael Franz