Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta, Rioja (La Rioja, Spain) Garnacha “Campeador” 2022 ($30)

Relatively few consumers think of Rioja as a place of origin for Garnacha / Grenache, but in fact there is a lot of it planted—especially in the southerly sub-region of Rioja Baja, but in a changing climate it is likely to become ever more important in more northerly areas. This example shows the vivid red cherry fruit that can make this variety so appealing and versatile (like Pinot Noir), with very bright acidity that makes a likeness to ripe, red pie cherries even more palpable. This doesn’t have the palate weight of Garnacha from Aragón’s appellations, but it easily makes up for that in its way with freshness, lift, and persistency of flavor thanks to its energizing acidity. For many foods—and ever more of the ones that health-conscious consumers favor these days — light is right and so is this wine.
92 Michael Franz