Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta, Rioja (La Rioja, Spain) “La Centenaria” 2022 ($150)

Yes, this wine is undeniably very expensive, but I hasten to note that it is ultra-fine in aroma, flavor, and structure — and stands as one of the few wines other than the very best bottles of Barbaresco or Barolo (or Rioja) that can conjure a similarity to the finest red Burgundy wines at the Premier or Grand Cru level as appropriate examples for comparison. To expand on this a bit, whenever a producer crafts a wine targeted at this price level, it seems that the strategy is always to load up on everything from fruit ripeness prior to harvesting…to maceration time…to new oak usage and aging duration to justify the price tag — resulting in a wine that is admirable in theory but not all that enjoyable in direct experience (if it will ever prove to be enjoyable at all, after aging). By contrast, this is a model of restraint and tastefulness, with virtually no obvious oak either in the aroma, bouquet, or texture — except for the most faint and advantageous accents. The aromas and flavors show terrific purity without seeming simple, and all the secondary and tertiary notes ride perfectly in sync along with the fruit notes through the very long finish. Some consumers willing to shell out $150 for a wine may want to be punched with power, and those potential buyers should look elsewhere. But for those who want a wine of beauty rather than power, and who would prefer to try this as opposed to paying $600 for a wine from Chambolle-Musigny, here is your alternative.
96 Michael Franz