Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta, Rioja Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) “Campeador Clásico” 2019 ($30)

This is an excellent Rioja Reserva from a historic producer in the highly regarded village of Haro—home to several of Rioja’s very best producers (and lots of storks, by the way). This vintage of this wine is already looking terrific, with reserved oak influence and lovely fruit enhanced by multiple savory accents recalling carpaccio, subtle baking spices, and wild herbs. The fruit notes are open and yet not juicy nor obvious, making this a wine that can easily be enjoyed now or aged for additional complexity for at least five years—probably ten.
93 Michael Franz