Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) “Le Cigare Volant” 2023 ($18)

The back story of Le Cigare’s front label is one of the best and most pun-ishing of Grahm’s Hairy Tales, but the “Take Me to Your Liter” banner splayed across its frontage should be taken liter-ally, as an extra quarter is given. The blend is about 70% Grenache, with trailing amounts of Cinsault, Syrah and Petite Sirah. The tastes of this Randall Grahm offering are more Côtes du Rhône-ish than Châteauneuf-y – fragrant, with light yet rampant black raspberry flavors and a savory finish. And, buy-the-buy, the 2023 celebrates the 40th vintage from the Grahm reaper.
90 Roger Morris