Bouchaine, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2023 ($40)

The majority of winemaker Chris Kijani’s classic Napa-style Chardonnay come from grapes that were almost origin vines for this Carneros estate, having been planted in 1984 – if not old vines, at least older ones. It’s one of three styles she makes from the property – there is also a no-oak and a reserve in the Bouchaine Chard collection. There are aromas of fresh corn oil on the nose that becomes toasty flavors on the palate to go along with the apple-pie fruit, but there is enough structure and acidity that the wine maintains its waistline and stays delightfully fresh, neither fat nor fruity sweet.
92 Roger Morris