Valpolicella in its many manifestations can be confusing and something of a challenge at the dinner table. I have my method of madness and tend to serve Valpolicella Classico with simple meat dishes or those with a light tomato-based sauce. Amarone is my go-to Valpilicella with cheeses after dinner. It is the one in the middle, the Ripasso that is fermented on the lees of the Amarone, that is actually the most versatile. Buglioni’s Il Bugiardo is more powerful than most Ripasso Valpolicella, making it ideal with savory stews, grilled meats, game and even cheeses. The hint of raisin on the palate sets it apart from Valpolicella Classico, yet thus Ripasso also exhibits some of the fresh berry fruit character that makes Valpolicella Classico so appealing. Regardless of how you intend to serve it, however, know this is an impressive Ripasso that will leave you wanting more once the bottle is finished.