Rutherglen, the most inland of Victoria’s sub-regions, is most famed for its fortified, sweet “stickies” in the world marketplace, but this 103-year-old winery sings a different tune with this Cabernet. Full-throttle deep black fruit sings the melody, with fall spice, moderate oak char and a dash of menthol round out the accompaniment. A firm grip in the finish knits the flavors together well. It’s tasty now, but would benefit from some cellar time.
93 Rich Cook
Buller Wines, Rutherglen (Victoria, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Balladeer” 2021 ($32)
By Rich Cook
