Ca’ del Bosco, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) “Cuvée Prestige” Brut Extra NV ($43)

Franciacorta, a prestigious DOCG exclusively for sparkling wines, is nestled on the southern shore of Lake Iseo in Lombardy. The wine must be made using the so-called Classical Method, a secondary fermentation in the bottle. The blend includes the usual grapes for Champagne, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, with the addition of Pinot Bianco. In 2017, regulators allowed Erbamat, a late ripening, high acid variety, to be used to maintain freshness and verve despite the warmth of climate change. Ca’ del Bosco, a top producer, makes a terrific line of Franciacorta bottlings. This one focuses on minerality rather than overt fruitiness, supported by an elegant spine of acidity. An aperitivo, to be sure, but its cutting edginess and finesse makes it a fine choice for sushi.
93 Michael Apstein