Campàro, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cosi” 2022 ($40, Oneonthehill)

Full disclosure: I love Langhe Nebbiolo. It has the much of the allure of Barolo without the decade-long need for bottle age. Campàro’s beguiling 2022 combines an aromatic floral aspect with complementary savory nuances both on the nose and the palate. The tannins are firm yet not intrusive and provide welcome structure. Bright, sour cherry-like acidity keeps it fresh and long. Not a stand-alone sipper, it is a wine that calls for hearty pasta or a long-simmered stew this fall and winter.
91 Michael Apstein