Cantina Andrian, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Lagrein 2018

 I love Alto Adige…and I love Lagrein…and I’ve admired multiple wines from this house — but even allowing for all of that, I thought this was utterly fabulous.  The aromas and flavors are remarkably pure and poised, making this seem like a wine that really WAS made in the vineyard rather than the cellar, which of course everyone claims regardless of the plausibility of the claim.  Still nearly opaque despite being only a medium-bodied wine, it is wonderfully concentrated and flavorful with striking flavor impact, yet very soft texture.  Energetic acidity makes all this work so that the wine stays light on its feet — but still with terrific punch and a very long, symmetrical finish.  Exciting wine — perfectly ripened and tastefully wrought.  This seems to be a relative rarity, with very few retailers offering the wine, but it is well worth a search.  And for the record, I put my money where my mouth is in this review, and tracked several bottles down for my cellar.