Cantine Sant’ Agata, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato Riserva DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Genesi” 2019 ($48)

An unusual rendition of Ruchè—even in the Riserva category—on account of its sheer muscle as well as and structure. With notable density and depth of flavor, as well as lots of tannins with some wood probably adding to the tannin load, this is quite a striking wine. Despite these characteristics, the wine still displays Ruchè’s signature perfume. I left my press sample bottle opened and uncorked for 24 hours to get a sense of its durability, which it displayed in abundance. The fruit was still fresh and the finish quite persistent, and these are attributes that often fade. This wine and the “Pro Nobis” indicate 15.5% alcohol, but neither show this overtly at all, and I didn’t even bother checking the numbers when first tasting the wines. An extremely ambitious take on a fascinating variety, this is an excellent introduction if you can find a bottle.
94 Michael Franz