They say confession is good for the soul, so here goes: I’m guilty of thinking that Rosso di Montalcino is both over-rated and over-priced, usually costing twice as much as solid Chianti Classico because it bears the name “Montalcino,” a word that triggers Pavlovian recollections of Brunello — that the wines just don’t deliver. If you share my guilt in this, here’s the wine to show you the error of your ways. It oozes class and quality in every respect, displaying wonderfully intricate aromas and beautifully balanced flavors that work perfectly with a notable but unobtrusive influence from oak and lots of super-silky tannins. Medium-bodied but very expressive, this strikes just the right balance between generosity and reserve, making it enjoyable now with a very wide range of dishes, but also capable of positive development in the years ahead.
Caparzo, Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
By Michael Franz