Castelvero, Piemonte (Piedmont, Italy) Barbera 2009

 The world-wide shift toward riper, richer wines has manifested itself in Barbera as much–if not more than–any Italian red wine.  Twenty years ago, most renditions were light-bodied, very low in tannin, quite high in acidity, and utterly devoid of seasoning from new oak.  Today, many examples from Alba or Asti are full-bodied, high in alcohol, low in acidity, and loaded with toasty oak.  I enjoy many of the new Barberas, but I lament the loss of the traditional ones, which were terrific food wines.  This bottling from Castelvero is a delightful throwback rendition that offers lots of bright, fresh fruit (red raspberry and tart cherry) with low tannin and lots of refreshing acidity.  It doesn’t bear the prestige lent by an association with Alba on its label, but for many assignments on the dinner table, it is arguably better for that.