Cavazza, Gambellara Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bocara” 2024 ($26)

Think of Gambellara as the epitome of Soave. Gambellara lies about 15 miles northeast of Soave, usually mostly the same grape, Garganega, and has similar volcanic terroir. But while much of Soave vineyards lie on the plains, most of Gambellara’s have better exposures, on hillsides. Classico, here, as with other Italian DOCs, such as Soave or Chianti, refers to the most historic and important portion of the area. Cavazza’s impressive 2024 delivers stone fruit nuances, but the wine’s profile is not fruity. It is more mineral-y with a volcanic-like firmness. Great saline-like acidity imbues it with life and energy while a haunting tinge of bitterness in the finish adds grandeur. Despite its modest 12 percent stated alcohol, it has good weight, enough to stand up to roast chicken with mushroom sauce.
94 Michael Apstein