Cecchi, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Coevo” 2021 ($120)

This ultra-premium Tuscan red is a blend of 50% coastal Merlot from the Maremma blended with 50% Sangiovese from Castellina in Chianti (obviously in the Chianti Classico district). A highly polished wine that just oozes class, “Coevo” was first made in 2006 as a tribute to Luigi Cecchi, the visionary third-generation leader who spearheaded the company’s expansion. The impression made by wood is quite subtle, as the 18 months of cask aging was conducted in French tonneaux, which range from 560 to 1005 liters in capacity (but are in any case much larger with less surface area in contact with the wine than barriques, which usually only have a capacity of 225 liters). The exceptional Tuscan growing season of 2021also shows in the wine’s beautiful proportionality and balance, with fully ripe fruit that is on the edge of full-bodied, but doesn’t come off as heavy—much less over-ripe or obvious. Dark fruit notes predominate, including black cherries, blackberries and dark plums. The little hint of wood only adds to the wine’s complexity without obtruding on the gorgeous fruit, which is likewise supported but not dried out at all by tannins, which are ultra-fine in grain. This will surely become even more impressive as tertiary notes are woven in from time in bottle, but this is delicious now for anyone lacking in patience—or a cellar. Wow. Hats off to proprietor Andrea Cecchi and winemaker Miria Bracali on this marvelous wine.
96 Michael Franz