Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV ($105, Folio Wine Partners)

I have tasted more complex, more nuanced Blanc de Blancs before, but I can’t remember the last time I had one that was this well-balanced and satisfying at all points on the palate. First, it beautifully accentuates the primary flavors of apple, toast from reserve wine components, and metallic minerality in that sequence. Next, its linear structure makes the wine’s passage across the palate pop out at each juncture. Finally, there are those fine and persistent bubbles that make this sparkling wine last and last in the aftertaste, and in memory.
95 Roger Morris