Château du Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2018 ($25)

Château du Taillan has always been one of my favorite Cru Bourgeois wines. One of the benefits to consumers of the Cru Bourgeois Classification is that the wine authorities re-visit the hierarchy every five years, forcing producers to keep on their toes. In the last re-classification, 2025, Château du Taillan was promoted to the top level, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. Only 14 chateaux out of the total of 170 Cru Bourgeois properties have this distinction. The 2018 shows that they were already making exceptional wine back when this was grown and vinified. This aromatic mid-weight beauty brings together the freshness of youth and the complexity of bottle age. Fine tannins impart structure without being intrusive. A delectable hint of bitterness in the finish makes it ideal for drinking now with grilled lamb chops. But there’s no rush. And at the price, you might want to put a few extra bottles in the cellar.
93 Michael Apstein