Château La Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2020

 I confess that I’ve often found white wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape underwhelming in relation to the prices asked for them, and though $65 is “no small ask,” this wine seems worth every one of those dollars.  The fruit is at once fresh and opulent, with a mélange of scents and flavors including both stone fruits and restrained tropical notes, and the balance of ripeness to acidity could hardly be any better.  What is most impressive are the light touches of nutty oak that grace both the aromas and flavors.  These greatly enhance the wine’s complexity and appeal, and deriving so much appeal at a level where the terms “light” and “grace” are appropriate is very difficult — and very impressive.