Château Malherbe, Côtes de Provence Rouge (France) 2022 ($55, Rootstock)

This isn’t a great wine, but it is a very good one that held my attention the way a comfort-food steak-au-poivre would do. A Syrah-dominated blend, it is elegant yet with a bit of an edge with mature blackberry fruit and a lovely earthy, savory, brooding undercurrent with prickly tannins and a very long finish.
92 Roger Morris