Claude and Florence Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) Les Monts Damnés 2023 ($43, Louis Dressner)

The village of Chavignol stands out among Sancerre communes for the intensity of its wines. The Kimmeridgian-age limestones of the village form soils that make Sauvignon Blancs from Chavignol among the most distinctive in the world. Arguably the finest site in this storied village is the steep Les Monts Damnés vineyard. Thomas-Labailles’s 2023 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés is drawn from 30+-year-old vines in Chavignol and shows the intensity of the vineyard. It displays intense, pure fruit at the nose with lemon, grapefruit and green apple scents are followed by hints of flowers, pear, lanolin and fresh herbs. The flavors of citrus and green apple fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints. The rich texture is the hallmark of the Les Monts Damnés site. Try it now with a fresh Chèvre or let it cellar and develop for another 3 to 5 years.
94 Wayne Belding